Jump to content
SAU Community

Grinding Cluch

tezflow
 Share

Recommended Posts

tezflow Rising Star

tezflow

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, i just bought a skyline r33 gtst and had it looked at by racv before buyin it and it has a grinding sound when the cluch is in......the guy from racv told me that is was doing that gringing sound because it was a twin plate cluch. Is this ture? or is my cluch stuffed although the car can still be driven perfictly. and if it is a problem is it bad and what will it ruffly cost to fix. Thanks heaps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144309-grinding-cluch/
Share on other sites
tezflow Rising Star

tezflow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi guys, i just bought a skyline r33 gtst and had it looked at by racv before buyin it and it has a grinding sound when the cluch is in......the guy from racv told me that is was doing that gringing sound because it was a twin plate cluch. Is this ture? or is my cluch stuffed although the car can still be driven perfictly. and if it is a problem is it bad and what will it ruffly cost to fix. Thanks heaps.

nah man it only makes the sound when the cluch is in..in nutral it sounds fine.and i think its sounds more like a grinding sound. thnks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144309-grinding-cluch/#findComment-2697979
Share on other sites
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
nah man it only makes the sound when the cluch is in..in nutral it sounds fine.and i think its sounds more like a grinding sound. thnks.

Yep, sounds like a twin plate :laugh:

sorry i was ment to reply to n1gtr

Thats ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144309-grinding-cluch/#findComment-2698215
Share on other sites
FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

How is the clutch operation? i.e is it as easy to use as any other factory manual you have driven? Or did you notice it being more difficult to operate , i.e it stalled, you wanted to give it more revs, the friction point was very small to non existant?

I have a twin and would not describe the sound as a grind. As mentioned its a rattling sound.

Lastly, if this came up in a pre purchase inspection why ask the question after you bought it? Also, have you asked the previous owner what clutch is in it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144309-grinding-cluch/#findComment-2699144
Share on other sites
tezflow Rising Star

tezflow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How is the clutch operation? i.e is it as easy to use as any other factory manual you have driven? Or did you notice it being more difficult to operate , i.e it stalled, you wanted to give it more revs, the friction point was very small to non existant?

I have a twin and would not describe the sound as a grind. As mentioned its a rattling sound.

Lastly, if this came up in a pre purchase inspection why ask the question after you bought it? Also, have you asked the previous owner what clutch is in it?

Its a little harder to drive than a stock r33 cluch and my brothers heavy duty, but its not that bad, although it does have a lot smaller friction point its almost just in or out you cant really ride the cluch much at all.

And the reason i am asking the questions now is that i am just trying to see if all twin plate cluchs make this sound when their pushed in. also the racv guy and the seller both told me it was a twin plate racing cluch that was really go and woth abit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144309-grinding-cluch/#findComment-2701543
Share on other sites
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

You shouldnt "ride" twin plates if it can be avoided

Some twins make that sound, other twins dont, it really depends on the intended use for it and of course the type of make/spec it is :laugh:

If you could get the part number off the seller then post that up it would be dead easy to confirm it for you :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144309-grinding-cluch/#findComment-2701662
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • GTSBoy
      Can't put strut back

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...