Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

you can buy a belt dressing, mine screetches a little every now and them, just spray a bit of this on, stops it for awhile, then re apply or adjust it.

it would probably be better than soap, coke or wd40 etc. because its designed for that exact purpose, conditions the belts too.

you can pick i up at supercheap, or maybe autobahn or places alike will stock it.

The fix for you...did this last week on my Maxima.

Wet some soap untill it becomes like Jelly then apply to the belt.

PRESTO......no noise.

Cheers

;)

yes I can vouch for that one..Its an old mechanics trick that works...poor bastards are usually slugged $ for it.

My alternator belt used to screach when it was really hot, then if you revved it up a bit or turn it off and on again it would go away. Then I tightend the belts, and they have never squealed again. The belts are in good condition, so I knew that wasn't the problem. After it would squeal, the alternator wheel was hotter than the exhaust manifold, so thats how I knew which belt was slipping.

for mine it was allways the alternator belt that was doing all of the screeching. and boy did it screech..

i ended up haveing the neighbours ask me if it was my car they were hearing in the morning.

tighten it a bit untill it stops then back it off. if it still does it after youve backed it off tighten it up a little more untill it stops again. what u dont want to do is tighten the f**k outa it and root the belt.

i hear that screaching noise every few months , i mainly notice it when we get some rain or a misty night , my opinion is it could be moisture getting to the belts? my opinion - im not a mechanic or anything , but i do notice it in those conditions . on my old car i got the same noise and sprayed some wd40 on them , would stop the noise , from happening in winter

I got that problem with my '01 laser. Every time it rains, my belts would squeal but would dissapear after the engine bay heated up.

is the screeching like a grinding screech? i.e. starter solenoid not disengaging gear properly?

if its screeching when your taking off your increasing the load on the belts hence slipping so i reckon its them

Edited by Jmaac
  • 2 months later...

I need some help too.. Here's my story:

My car was running good, no screeching from under the hood for a couple months..

One morning I start it up..Screeech!!! It lasted for about 30 secs and when the belts warmed up, the noise stopped. It did that after every cold start.

I finally put the car on the lift and put some more tension on the belts.. The noise stopped and all was good for a couple weeks.

Well, my belts started screeching again and so I took it to the mechanic and they put new belts on (from Nissan) and a couple days later took it in again to have them tighten the belts again. It started screeching again, and I had them replace a leaky power steering hose.. (hehe, they told me that was the problem). Now the dang belts are still noisy on cold starts, and I don't know which one.

Could the problem be with the tensioners? Could there be a stripped bolt that keeps coming loose??

I don't know and was wondering if there's a way to replace the tensioners / bolts and if anyone knows where I could pick them up.. I was guessing a Nissan parts store.

I live in Japan and the local Nissan dealer said they might not be able to look at my car because of the mods I have done to the car (i.e. the mirrors don't retract in, haha).. And I don't trust the local mechanic, so I'll do it myself. Thanks for the information, and help, in advance

By the way, I have a '93 GTS25T, with stock engine. I'll post everything in my profile later:) Thanks

Probably completely different problem here, but with the 1JZ Toyota motor (not sure is Nissan's RB is the same) the crank pulley and Harmonic balancer is a 2-piece item, the section that is connected to the motor is metal, the pulley it's self is metal, and there is a rubber shock-absorbing connector that holds the 2 together.

On my other car, the rubber between the 2 metal sections pitted and broke loose, so each time I started the car, it would screach just a little.

Problem with this one (and again, dont know if the RB has the same issue) is that this pulley drives alternator, waterpump and other peripherals, so if the pulley stopped spinning (of came off) it would stop pumping coolant around the engine.

Mine has come off twice now, thus the reason for buying a new car, so not sure if the Nissan could/would have the same issue, but something worth looking at.

My personal preference is that once a belt starts to make noise, it's usually crying to be replaced, or the tensioner is requiring attention.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...