Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there

i need to be able to remove the headlight assembly both sides so i can fiddle with them, to get the H1 assembly bit out, and get the xenon's back in!

i can easily see there are 2 screws on the top, but is there a step by step? such as does grill, airbox, battery, front bar need to be removed?

and where are the other screws located for removal, pics would be very helpful

thanks

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144433-headlight-removal/
Share on other sites

hi there

i need to be able to remove the headlight assembly both sides so i can fiddle with them, to get the H1 assembly bit out, and get the xenon's back in!

i can easily see there are 2 screws on the top, but is there a step by step? such as does grill, airbox, battery, front bar need to be removed?

and where are the other screws located for removal, pics would be very helpful

thanks

-Matt

is this for a s2 GTST? Only asking since you mentioned battery... Is the battery in the engine bay on Series 2's?

Will need to remove front bar and grille

The high beam headlights (the ones in the front grille S2) are mounted to the low beam head light, so removing the front bar you can get access

There is 3 nuts (10mm) at the rear of each head light, on the back side of the radiator support panel that need removing aswell

You may have to remove some things in the engine bay, like battery and airbox to get to 1 off the nuts. The other 2 are down the side of the radiator and should be able to get access.

  • 3 weeks later...

Anyone who has done a conversion back to HIDs, what the green wires are on my HID ballast ??? ive got 12v in on side of unit, red and white to HID bulb, but what are greens ??? thanks

...never mind, worked out it is a safety circuit ie only turns on when bulb is present, can be overrid by bridging them together.

post-780-1165900572.jpg

Edited by chook

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
×
×
  • Create New...