Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Head Removal

aphid

By aphid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted
hey guys,

curious as to know weather or not most people remove all accessories (ie intake manifold and turbo) from the head before pulling it off? had a bit of a search and turned up nothing :laugh:

cheers,

mark.

it depends on if you can access the two little 10 mm bolts hiden at 7 oclock and 1 oclock if your standing in front of the car, looking at the motor. i cant remember, but there hidden. especially the front one.

HRthirtyone Rising Star

HRthirtyone

Posted
Posted

take the turbo off, but may aswell leave the manifolds on, they make good handles when lifting it off, however the intake manifold adds heaps of weight.

and yea there are a couple of 10mm bolts "hidden" on the outside, as opposed to the "inside" where the head studs are

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the advice so far guys, keep it coming :laugh:

by hidden 10m bolts do you mean under the cam cover? Haven't got this far into it yet, i've just got all of the intake piping detatched and fuel lines disconnected heat shields off and have removed the cam covers to make sure i have the right sized socket/allen key to undo the head studs.. now i'm working on unbolting the dump pipe from the joint just before the cat, f**king tight up these bolts are :D

take the turbo off, but may aswell leave the manifolds on, they make good handles when lifting it off, however the intake manifold adds heaps of weight.

and yea there are a couple of 10mm bolts "hidden" on the outside, as opposed to the "inside" where the head studs are

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

and by 10mm bolts do you guys mean the m6(10mm head) bolts of which there are 3 not 4. two at the back and 1 at the front i believe.

Youve just undone the headstuds and removed everything in sight, and the bitch still wont come off...then your 13 yr old brother handing you spanners says...it wouldnt be those m6 bolts holding the head down would it? haha...ohh funny but frustrating times.....

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

hha yeah 3 of them, need to remove the cam gears to get to the front one easily.

even worse on teh rb30e's, cant figure out how they even got the bolt in teh hole at the front lol

i use a engine crane, even with the head only, so manifolds stay on.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ah i look forward to it all tomorrow arvo when i finish work.. i got the shits with it tonight and ran out of light, decided to take the turbo then the exhaust manifold off.. i will put dads new rattle gun to good use tomorrow :(

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
ah i look forward to it all tomorrow arvo when i finish work.. i got the shits with it tonight and ran out of light, decided to take the turbo then the exhaust manifold off.. i will put dads new rattle gun to good use tomorrow :(

shouldnt need a ratlle gun for any of the bolts on the motor

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
jesus christ..

turbo is off, top half of intake manifold is off.. EVERY SCREW IN SIGHT IS OFF but the bitch still won't move! please.. help!

did you get the 3x 10mm head bolts off?

front one is behind the inlet cam gear

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

far out.. behind the inlet cam gear, sorry to be causing such a bother but how the hell does one get that off? it doesn't look like it's bolted on like the exhaust cam, or if it is the bolts are underneath the VCT cover bit on the actual gear.. i removed 3 out of the 4 bolts on that to check out if there was a spring underneath and indeed there was so that went back together pretty quickly.. any suggestions?

did you get the 3x 10mm head bolts off?

front one is behind the inlet cam gear

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted

sounds like you need a bigger hammer..

recheck all the head studs and make sure you have all the little bolts out. theres nothing else except the headgasket holding it on.

All else fails hook your block and tackle up to the head and keep lifting until the front wheels just leave the ground then start smacking it with a hammer or 2 x 4!

works every time.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

haha i like your style but i think i'll save it as a last resort :) now i know theres another bolt behind the intake cam it's just a matter of getting it off, and i now realise that there's also one behind the exhaust cam.. they're located pretty high on the head though so i'm not convinced that these are actually holding the block on.. how strong is the seal between the headgasket block and head?

sounds like you need a bigger hammer..

recheck all the head studs and make sure you have all the little bolts out. theres nothing else except the headgasket holding it on.

All else fails hook your block and tackle up to the head and keep lifting until the front wheels just leave the ground then start smacking it with a hammer or 2 x 4!

works every time.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
far out.. behind the inlet cam gear, sorry to be causing such a bother but how the hell does one get that off? it doesn't look like it's bolted on like the exhaust cam, or if it is the bolts are underneath the VCT cover bit on the actual gear.. i removed 3 out of the 4 bolts on that to check out if there was a spring underneath and indeed there was so that went back together pretty quickly.. any suggestions?

you will need to remove the inlet cam gear, yes there is a spring behind it.

i made some pics for you

post-5157-1164636664.jpg

post-5157-1164636674.jpg

post-5157-1164636694.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I like it when the counter chick leads you out the back into the racks and says "have a grub around in here and see if you can find what you need. I'll be back in a few minutes. Just left me in front of a massive motorised shelving system and 2-3 million fasteners, so I could find a peculiar SS shoulder bolt with cap head. Gotta love country towns.
    • Piggaz
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I used this https://osgiken.com.au/product/os-giken-os-250r-lsd-gear-oil-80w250-1-litre/   shut my nismo 1.5 pro up by heaps…. Not silent though. Gives the car character and personality. It ain’t a carolla. If you want silent, put a quaife in it.
    • MBS206
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • The Bogan
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • joshuaho96
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...