Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Pretty soon I am going to be getting a 3" X FORCE Stainless Steel Cat Back Exhaust.

I have been told that putting a cat back on my car will make my acceleration sluggish because I have a stock turbo.

Is this true? If so how sluggish will it be?

Also is X FORCE a good brand for exhausts?

I am getting this exhaust for around 100 bucks and i have seen them advertised for about 800.

So what do you guys think.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144481-cat-back-exhausts/
Share on other sites

You haven't been talking to someone that drives a naturally aspirated car have you?

I once said to someone i was going to change my exhaust and he goes "no can't put an exhaust that big on your car, you've only got a little motor and you'll lose your backpressure". Obviously he doesn't know much about turbos.

Whoever said that to you is uneducated in turbo performance.

If you want power, do your dump pipe and cat too.

I once said to someone i was going to change my exhaust and he goes "no can't put an exhaust that big on your car, you've only got a little motor and you'll lose your backpressure". Obviously he doesn't know much about turbos.

He doesn't know much about anything.

You don't ever want backpressure in your exhaust, whether your car is FI or NA.

Also is X FORCE a good brand for exhausts?

XForce make reasonable quality copies of Japanese aftermarket exhausts. They're not the last word in build quality, but they generally flow pretty well and fit just as well as Jap ones (since they're a pretty accurate copy).

My mate had a Trust exhaust that he ripped open on a speed hump. He bought an X-Force rear pipe section when the exhaust shop found it was a direct fit (from the flanges to the mounting hooks, to the shape of the bends). No noticable drop in power, either.

He doesn't know much about anything.

You don't ever want backpressure in your exhaust, whether your car is FI or NA.

... i think you'll find NA motors, require and manage back pressure to attain some level of reversion pulse tuning... with exactors.

What bout NA rota's, 2 strokes and expansion chambers...

M

The catalytic converter is roughly just under the passenger seat. Poke your head under the car and have a look.

Cat back - Exhaust system from the cat too and including the rear muffler (doesn't include the cat).

Turbo Back - Exhaust system from the turbo to and including the rear muffler. Consists of Dump/front Pipe, HiFlow Cat, cat back.

get a turbo back exhaust. you could always add the dump pipe and cat later (that's the stuff that's not included in a cat back system).

3 inch, with a decent cannon, and maybe a resonator half way, wont be tooo loud, but will sound grumpy and mean.

I got quoted:

$895 for a full 3 inch turbo back system inc hi flow cat

$400 for a 3 inch cat back system

Go for the turbo back system - saves the hassle of trying to replace the stock dump pipe and cat later on.

Tell the exhaust place how loud (or quiet) you want it and they should be able to do it for you

here you go. listen to my exhaust here :P 3 inch turbo back. it's a bit louder since the highflow cat went on, but will fix that with a resonator soon enough.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=65540

Edited by Munkyb0y
That sounds awesome Munkyboy. How is it on the highway? Is it really drony?

thanks. i like it :P

that vid was before i put the highflow cat on. no drone at all. perfect.

but since i put the highflow, there's a bit of drone in the cabin.

so i'm gonna put a resonator on, since there's none on my system besides the cannon.

most systems have a muffler/resonator between the cat and cannon.

... i think you'll find NA motors, require and manage back pressure to attain some level of reversion pulse tuning... with exactors.

What bout NA rota's, 2 strokes and expansion chambers...

M

i agree with scathing on this one.

its not about backpressure, backpressure by definition is a restriction and causes a loss of power. pulse tuning is a timing thing, you dont aim for backpressure, but it might be an unfortunate result of having extractors with the best scavenging affect, that will give more power overall. after the extractors the less backpressure the better.

2 strokes do need it, but who cares about 2 stroke :P

edit: with 2 strokes, i think its important to remember that its a secondary effect of backpressure which gives more power, not a primary effect. the secondary effect being that the backpressure stops the air/fuel charge from blowing straight through the chamber. if the charge didnt blow through from a lack of backpressure, and we took away the backpressure, power would increase. (ala 4 stroke)

Edited by mokompri

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...