Jump to content
SAU Community

Conversion

R-33

By R-33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R-33 Apprentice

R-33

Posted
Posted

Finally have found a smashed donor car r33 series 3 4 door with RB25DE so I can ditch the RB20E boat anchor R33 series 1. The mrs is very happy. A few questions.

1. I'm assuming I will be able to use the RB20E manual box with the RB25DE?

Have a RB25de fly. Donor car is auto

2. Will the RB25de Loom plug up to wiper etc in a series 1 R33

3. what engine mounts will bolt up?

4. Tail shaft?

5. Gearbox xmember will this bolt up when sitting behind a RB25de?

6. Any other traps I should be aware of?

The donor car is the complete car so have all the parts I should need for the conversion.

Obviously I will have to do a few mods like auto drive switch etc. I don't have heaps of experiance with R33's but have built many Datsun 1600's with SR's etc and Silvia's. So mods and wiring etc isn't the issue. I don't however want to be stuffing around for hours, would rather a bit of knowledge from people whom are in the know with Skylines

Cheers :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BADR33 Collaborator

BADR33

Posted
Posted

hey. iv done this conversion on my r33. except i went to rb30de...

the rb20e gearbox bolts up, tail shaft slides rite on it of corse as your using the same box. if you dont have a manual rb25de fly wheel you can use the rb20e one.

you can use either rb25 or rb20e mounts, gearbox crossmenber is fine as as the engine is no longer then the previous.

yes the wiring plugs in to the headlights etc. well it did for me.

the only trap you need to be aware of is the fact that the car will crank but not start because it dusnt send power to the CAS. its pretty easy to do. all you need to do is run a power wire to the ingnition from one of the relays... it helps if you dont have a car alarm to blow up like i did with mine...

is your battery in the front or the back?

dus your car have ABS?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R-33 Apprentice

R-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey. iv done this conversion on my r33. except i went to rb30de...

the rb20e gearbox bolts up, tail shaft slides rite on it of corse as your using the same box. if you dont have a manual rb25de fly wheel you can use the rb20e one.

you can use either rb25 or rb20e mounts, gearbox crossmenber is fine as as the engine is no longer then the previous.

yes the wiring plugs in to the headlights etc. well it did for me.

the only trap you need to be aware of is the fact that the car will crank but not start because it dusnt send power to the CAS. its pretty easy to do. all you need to do is run a power wire to the ingnition from one of the relays... it helps if you dont have a car alarm to blow up like i did with mine...

is your battery in the front or the back?

dus your car have ABS?

Cheers Mate.

Bat is in the back and no no ABS.

SO I just need to run a relay with the ignition to the CAS? Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BADR33 Collaborator

BADR33

Posted
Posted

its one of the relays by the ecu that has no power. i could have a look for you if you need. its almost been a year since i did the swap. its quite a simple thing to do as far as i know.. its the same thing that people with cefiros that covernt from rb20e to rb20det etc...

its simple for a auto sparky to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB gearbox options

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • r32-25t
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By r32-25t · Posted

      those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • TurboTapin
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...