Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all never thought about this and if its possible, but im thinking of flying over east next week to buy a car, and was actually thinking while im at it, drive the car back to perth myself and make it a road trip instead of getting it shipped here, would cost me the same with fuel i know but would be more itneresting. anyway.....

My question is...is there any way to disable a turbo on an r34? maybe pull some boost hose out or sumthing? seems abit useless for the turbo to be constantly spooling on a 3000km journey.

Any ideas?

cheers

Edited by supraaah
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144505-is-it-possible-to-disable-a-turbo/
Share on other sites

cruising it will probably not even be making positive pressure, it will be fine.

the way to 'disable' it would be to wire open the wastegate.

well lets just say im in 5th gear and not quite doing the speed limit, it would be spooling up abit wouldnt it? i mean the nallabor plain is a long road my foot might accidently get stuck on the accelerator.

any idea where the wastegate is? and if that would be a viable option?

BTW- i have an external wastegate on my supra (50mm chinese HKS copy) which has seized open, and my turbo still spools up, so wouldnt that be the same principal ur on about? in which case turbo still spools.

Edited by supraaah
well lets just say im in 5th gear and not quite doing the speed limit, it would be spooling up abit wouldnt it? i mean the nallabor plain is a long road my foot might accidently get stuck on the accelerator.

any idea where the wastegate is? and if that would be a viable option?

BTW- i have an external wastegate on my supra (50mm chinese HKS copy) which has seized open, and my turbo still spools up, so wouldnt that be the same principal ur on about? in which case turbo still spools.

if your wastegate is seized open how are you getting boost ? dont they vent excess boost ? meaning if its open before you reach set boost level it wont go anywhere

you would use more fuel by "Disabling" the turbo for your trip than you would using the thing.. and even if your cruising along at 160kph you shouldnt be seeing much boost to maintain a cetain speed if any at all

remember.. if you disable your turbo it will be a gutless bucket of junk to drive!!!

Edited by rb26s13
You're nuts mate. If you don't want a functioning turbo don't buy a turbo car. If you do buy one just drive it. That's what they were built for.

I second this. Drive the thing, you will soon find it doesn't just boost when on steady state cruise.

Best way to disable a turbo? Tip a handful of shotgun pellets down the air intake. Guaranteed to work :laugh:

I agree with the majority of opinion here - on cruise, the turbos are simply "spinning in the breeze" - you should find that the engine is still under vacuum.

If you disable the turbos, and you find yourself in a "sutuation" (eg misjudged how much time/distance you have to overtake a B-double), then you won't have the turbos to assist you in your time of need.

Just leave the damn things alone.

i would have to agree, on the simple fact that you are driving across a desert in a car that you aren't familiar with. you don't know if the thermostat or clutch fan is working properly. so you run the risk of cooking it on the way. at 100kmh there would be plenty of air going through the radiator, but it could still get rather hot. and if something breaks you could be stuck in the middle of nowhere.

to those of u with helpfull and productive comments ...thanks, to the rest of u no one asked u to comment if u dont agree, notice i said "just an idea" i own a supra (hence my avatar) with different turbo setup and different gear/diff ratios, doing 160 even in sixed my turbo is spooling up quite abit, now as a newbie to the r34 i have never driven one, im buying it on my brothers behalf. Once again, thanks to those with productive comments :)

dont be so one sighted, there are different caars out there, if an r34 wont be spooling up at that speed, doesnt mean others wont...thats why i asked

no car would spool up at light cruise at 100km/h

even at 130kmh. the turbo has no relationship to road speed

it only cares about exhaust gas, which is derived from engine load

load the engine up, and it will wind up

the turbo will only spool if you open the throttle

engine load makes exhaust gas, exhaust gas makes the turbine spin

so once more

no car will make boost unless you pull the throttle cable enough

it wont under any circumstances staring winding in 12psi if you are just light crusing along the highway

supraaah - serious answer is that you will not be boosting at all infact you will have negative boost ie. vacuum. at cruise - which is most of the time so you will be just fine in the fuel economy department.

Also there is very little increase in fuel consumption and a lot more efficiency to be had from using the turbo when you are accelerating.

If you are wanting fuel economy what counts is how long you can maintain a cruising speed vs accelerating time. So if you drive in a way that you brake less and therefore don't have to accelerate back up to speed you will get more fuel economy. Accelerating hard onto the freeway will not see you use more fuel! What you will get is better power to weight ratio output from your lighter engine which has a turbo instead of a larger and heavier engine.

Once you drive it, check out the boost guage, this will show the boost negative or positive. Its definately extremely negative when you are cruising.

Do try to drive when accelerating with the rpm in the powerband where your engine is most efficient ie.over 2200rpm.

Don't forget the energy is used to get you up to speed and lost in braking. How hard you accelerate so long as you aren't going to brake for a while especially makes almost no difference to the fuel economy.

So feel free to use that boost to get you up to speed but try to maintain the speed without having to brake. If that means driving slower to make it through all the lights in the city without braking or coming up to a lower speed so when you do brake you don't lose as much energy from your last acceleration thats the way to go for fuel economy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...