Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Accelerating hard onto the freeway will not see you use more fuel!

yes it does. if you accelerate at half throttle, but still at full boost the throttle body is only half open, so less air is going into the motor than at full throttle. when more air goes in, more fuel is dumped in to keep the AFRs right.

if i drive round town accelerating hard all the time i use much more fuel than just driving casually round.

the harder you accelerate, the more fuel goes into the motor. you sound like you think that whether at 25% throttle or 100% throttle the same amount of fuel goes into the motor. that isn't true. sure you may have got up to speed in a shorter time by accelerating hard, but you have put more load on the motor, so more fuel goes in. and generally light load mapping is leaner than heavy load, so not only is there less air going into the motor, but the air/fuel ratio is leaner. so should you get to a point where the amount of air going into the motor is the same, the light load mapping will be putting in less fual that the heavy load mapping.

yes it does. if you accelerate at half throttle, but still at full boost the throttle body is only half open, so less air is going into the motor than at full throttle. when more air goes in, more fuel is dumped in to keep the AFRs right.

if i drive round town accelerating hard all the time i use much more fuel than just driving casually round.

the harder you accelerate, the more fuel goes into the motor. you sound like you think that whether at 25% throttle or 100% throttle the same amount of fuel goes into the motor. that isn't true. sure you may have got up to speed in a shorter time by accelerating hard, but you have put more load on the motor, so more fuel goes in. and generally light load mapping is leaner than heavy load, so not only is there less air going into the motor, but the air/fuel ratio is leaner. so should you get to a point where the amount of air going into the motor is the same, the light load mapping will be putting in less fual that the heavy load mapping.

Maybe, but are you sure its leaner on light load on this car? Does stoichmetric cut in whenever its off boost or just when idling? I am not asking if the meter is utilised but whether it runs stoichmetric off boost as opposed to idle.

In any case it is my opinion that you make up for the the richer mixture during 100% acceleration by sitting in higher gear off boost for longer.

Tell ya something funny...

I'm probably the ONLY person to have actually done this!!!!

Cooler pipe kept coming off on my way from Newcastle to QLD. After a while, i went, meh, and left it off.

This was possible due to an aftermarket ecu with a map sensor. So the turbo sure did spool... and blew air onto the side of the intercooler somewhere, but not threw it.

It was an NA-T so the hi comp meant it was the same as driving a normal SR20.

To answer the question tho, this isn't something I would have done on purpose. Its just stupid. Going on a flat road, you won't go above 0psi unless you accelerate.

Oh, for those who are wondering, fuel consumption wasn't bad. Only road trip the car has been on, so can't compare to with boost, but it was just over 10L per 100kms.

Wouldnt doing speeds over say 130km/h on cruise possibly generate some boost due to the load against the car from the wind?

the car should only suck in enough air to replace what was used in the last combustion cycle ? wind is hardly enough force to compress air, and even if it did it would be MINUTE and not spool a turbo

i have sat on 200kph on back straight of mallala, at a constant speed once i had accelerated up to that speed. i maintained the speed and the boost gauge was still well into the vac range... ming you boost was tiny depression away lol.

this is with a rb20 + large turbo

i have sat on 200kph on back straight of mallala, at a constant speed once i had accelerated up to that speed. i maintained the speed and the boost gauge was still well into the vac range... ming you boost was tiny depression away lol.

this is with a rb20 + large turbo

Hmm.

I find that with my (stock internals) RB26 cruising on the freeway at 110 +- 20km/h it's _just_ on boost at cruise.

As soon as there's a slight incline it's into +ve manifold pressure.

I guess different strokes for different folks.

As speed goes up, the amount of forward 'oomph' required to maintain that speed increases as the square of velocity -

so you must have been in a _very_ aerodynamic car.

Regards,

Saliya

Maybe, but are you sure its leaner on light load on this car? Does stoichmetric cut in whenever its off boost or just when idling? I am not asking if the meter is utilised but whether it runs stoichmetric off boost as opposed to idle.

i put a wideband o2 sensor on my stock ecu and it ran 11.x-1 on full load, and about 13.x-1 on light load (normal driving).

In any case it is my opinion that you make up for the the richer mixture during 100% acceleration by sitting in higher gear off boost for longer.

why would you sit longer in the higher gear? if you mean that you are at full throttle but not fully on boost, you are still running richer than you would at less throttle %. if i am driving along and accelerate from 30kmh to 60kmh, then just cruise in 2nd gear, then lean out the mixtures and do the same thing again, the second time i am going to accelerate faster due to having more power, use less fuel due to leaner mixtures, and spend less time at 100% throttle and more time at light throttle. light load at higher rpm uses a lot less fuel than full load at a lower rpm.

if you are running 5psi and if you can sit at 5% throttle at 6000rpm (off boost), you are probably going to use less fuel than 3000rpm at 100% throttle (and full boost), as the amount of air going into the motor on each stroke is probably about 10% of what it is at full boost, so about 10% of the fuel is needed to have the same afr. now those figures of 10% may not be accurate, but it would be in the ball park.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...