Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr 33 Electrical Gremlins Please Help!

Guest rip it

By Guest rip it,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest rip it

Guest rip it

Posted
Posted

Hopefully someone out there has an answer for me. I own a 1996 gtr that has recently developed a miss after about 10 - 15 mins of driving. my mechanic has found it to be that the injectors are not getting a perfect supply of power. He has checked all earths and the resistor that sends the spark to injectors, the battery and all come up fine. The car has an Apexi fc and the usual minor mods, upgraded sard fuel pump and regulator, exhaust and filters (314 hp at all 4), so not heavilly modded at all. My mech has spent 12 hours trying everything but no joy. ( he's no goose as he preps a lot of cars for targa and has never seen this problem in 20 years in business ). His next step is to get an auto elec to test for power supply quality???? If anybody can help or has had similar probs please let me know. ( carton of coronas )

Noy Experienced

Noy

Posted
Posted
My 33 used to do the exact same thing. Was ok at the start, then as it warms up it misses a beat.

Coilpacks

My girls GTR did the same thing... and yes new coilpacks. runs like a dream now

Guest rip it

Guest rip it

Posted
Posted

I should have said the car developed a "severe" miss and it would continue to the point that at the lights if i didn't feather the throttle it would stop. This miss and shudder would continue in all gears at all revs. Does that sound the same as your cars? The mechanic checked the spark plugs and coil packs first and said they were fine. Thanks for the fast response guys, keep 'em coming. Cheers

Noy Experienced

Noy

Posted
Posted

My girls car had a slight miss at low revs, rev it over 4,000rpm and it started breaking down badly.. changed coilpacks and the miss was gone. maybe it could be something else with yours but might be worth trying new coilpacks..

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

Are you saying that it runs perfect for the first 10-15 minutes? Then you get the miss? Or the miss is there all the time now ?

If only when hot , coil packs /ignitor, if all the time make sure you havent blown a cooler pipe and the airflow meters pick it up and dump heaps of fuel in, in this case you would see all the black smoke at the back and car won't have any power at all.

Guest rip it

Guest rip it

Posted
Posted

I dont know how he checked the coil packs, i'll have to ask him next week. ( the problem only happens when the car is warm so i will ask him if thats when he tested the coil packs ). On the Apexi fc hand controller he could see the injectors not working properly by the graph on the display. I've been without the car for 4 weeks and am having massive withdrawal symptoms. My VW transporter and the wifes v6 dunnydore just ain't doing it for me..... :rofl::(:D

OVA 300 Collaborator

OVA 300

Posted
Posted

Sorry about the late response people, my computer had a sicky and i've had to reregister under 'ova 300' instead of rip it. my mechanic has found the cause of the problem, so he gets the coronas. he had checked all of the above suggestions and everything was fine. it is a problem in the wiring loom in engine bay. probably caused by 10 years of twin turbo heat. he hopefully will have it back to me next week. unfortunatley i will miss the cruise in Brizbane on sunday so i hope everyone has a top day. cheers Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      First/Second Post

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • soviet_merlin
      Oem radio & steering wheel shroud for r33 (vic)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...