Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

howie/shoebox - those fuel consumption figures you both getting are quite high even for the mods given especially shoebox's since you got afc to adjust your air/fuel.

You'll find most of the 34 guys are getting between 13-14.5 litres. I was a bit worried at first, so i started a thread about it, and it looks like 90% of the 34 guys on this site are around this figure.

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i figured the O2 sensor was in the AFM you still didnt anwser my question how much !?!?!

Need to know what you were talking about first mate.

Anyway the O2 sensor goes into your exhaust, just after the turbo on the dump & by measureing how much oxygen (ie O2) is in the exhaust gas it can determine if it is running rich/lean or ok. Over time they wear out & usually read less voltage meaning it thinks the gas is lean therefore the ECU enrichens the mixture to compensate.

Anyhow to answer your question, you shouldn't be looking at any more than about $120 (I'm not sure I got mine for special discount, old work friend :laugh: ) Even with that price though it will pay for itself within about 3 months & then you'll end up miles in front after a year.

Need to know what you were talking about first mate.

Anyway the O2 sensor goes into your exhaust, just after the turbo on the dump & by measureing how much oxygen (ie O2) is in the exhaust gas it can determine if it is running rich/lean or ok. Over time they wear out & usually read less voltage meaning it thinks the gas is lean therefore the ECU enrichens the mixture to compensate.

Anyhow to answer your question, you shouldn't be looking at any more than about $120 (I'm not sure I got mine for special discount, old work friend :laugh: ) Even with that price though it will pay for itself within about 3 months & then you'll end up miles in front after a year.

ah yes the O2 sensor i am now on the same page thanks to your lovely description cheers

So can anyone get a new O2 sensor for me for a good price? I get around 16.5-17l/100km :( .... but I do sit idling for 10 minute periods many times a day writing up notes with the a/c on (which is the big reason I am getting a new radiator shortly) .... still that shouldn't affect it that much!

$99 is deacent for retail, though it doesn't hurt to shop around. Maybe I could set up a small group buy with my old work mates if there were enough people interested, though I don't know how much cheaper u'd get it than that.

Edited by JazzaR33

thanks Luke - I should get one very soon to hopefully fix my fuel usage issues.

I take it you just ask for an RB O2 sensor?

Do they have a specific thread type or anything? I would imagine that R33 and R34s are the same?

Yep a group buy would be good Jared, but unless it was going to be a fair bit cheaper than $99 I wouldn't bother if I was you.

Make sure you specify model too, it may be different from 1 engine to another depending on series & model. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same as an R33's but you have to make sure.

I think if there was enough interested with a group buy I could get them about $15 cheaper. Don't know if thats enough to sway people though.

even if it isnt... brand new parts dont hurt at all. they will cancel out any doubts u had about the source of problems.

Yes.. My problem some time ago wasn't the o2.. I replaced mine even though it appeared to be swinging within spec.

So out came the injectors in went the new and fuel consumption went from 350km's per tank back to its usual 450 to high 400's.

Andrew, I'd have the tune looked at first to be sure it is an oxy sensor that's causing your fuel use issues.

Although I guess in the realm of you and cars, a hundred bucks is about the cheapest thing you'll ever do!

The fuel consumption that Andrew is getting pretty is very high , I'd say replace the O2 first & then see if it fixes it, if not keep the old 1 as a spare. The more kays and the more hard driving it's suffered the more likely it's stuffed. Mine was screwed even with less than 50,000 on the dial & it probably should have been changed about 5,000 earlier as it was already chewing an extra litre per 100 to what it should have been.

Yes.. My problem some time ago wasn't the o2.. I replaced mine even though it appeared to be swinging within spec.

So out came the injectors in went the new and fuel consumption went from 350km's per tank back to its usual 450 to high 400's.

Common with older type injectors for this to happen, usually the spray pattern starts going a bit crappy & stops vapourising properly, instead you get almost a solid jet of fuel. Sometimes they would also not shut properly so would be flowing fuel all the time, but this was less common. Dual fuel cars are the worst, the crap building up from backfiring & oils mixed in with the gas collecting on them makes them stuff up eventually guranteed.

Cleaning usually fixed the problem, though if you wanted to go higher flowing injectors it was still better to put the money towards that.

Edited by JazzaR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Me, I would happly spend some more coin on better tyres for my street car  Will they work, yes, of course, but why substitute some dry grip/braking distance, and wet weather grip/braking distance on what is really old tech to save some coin on your "precious" street car In the end it might not be you that farks up, it's the thousands of other idiots on the street that you need to worry about  For a street car that gets some "fun time", I have found that a quality tyre that can handle dry, wet, cold (Canberra gets pretty cold) and hot conditions, which may costs a little more, is great insurance  From my experience with them (driving around Goulburn in the winter) the RE003's are pretty poor in cold and/or wet conditions on the street If RS4's didn't hate gripping in the cold I would be running them always on the street,  great in the dry, OK in the wet, but, they do hate the cold, with a passion, I run PS5's year round now, basically, I've found the PS5 to be a great year round street tyre for all conditions, they last well, and are mid range pricing wise TL;DR. Tyre choice is probably like what brand and grade oil you should use, ask 10 people, and get 10 different answers... LOL
    • Extend the sensor out of the car, put it in a pot of oil, heat oil up. You'll get to 80-120 then 馃槢
    • Yeah - I tried throwing the formulas from ChatGPT and it tried it's best as it told me that the Formula in HPTuners as requested is a Linear function, but the original data I provided it (resistance to temp) is not linear and thus it kept trying to suggest formulas that would be more accurate in regions I actually want it to be accurate in. But I didn't quite understand it at the time. I have now thrown the data into graphs and can clearly see they're all different shapes. Given it's an oil temp sensor I probably want it to be most accurate between 80 and 120c - So I don't really see much alternative other than driving the hell out of the car and letting it cool down from 120C, noting the voltage on the sensor as it chills out. But at that point if I write it down, well, I'll be able to know this from the voltage. Would look pretty stupid on a datalog or a video showing me going down the straight at 0.265V Oil temp 
    • Yeah, it looks like it's being ran as a constant current setup is my guess. Get some more data points, reading the degrees C on the gauge, and what the voltage is you're seeing out of it. The sensor itself is not linear, even in smaller ranges of like 20 - 60 it's non linear. But if we can get some good plots, particularly at those 5volt steps, it will be very easy to work out, and then I can give you a logarithmic formula if its you need an actual formula. Also, very likely ChatGPT will lead you astray with some of this stuff, as it totally depends on how the circuit is built.
    • So to further complicate things or hopefully explain better: This is a VDO sensor. It clearly does this math inside the gauge itself... because it displays a temperature in C to me instead of a voltage. The signal wire to the gauge is in Volts, not Ohms. I have just teed into this and sent it to the ECU. ChatGPT spat this out: Temperature (脗掳C) Thermistor Resistance (脦漏) Voltage Output (V) -40 36563.56 4.973962698 -35 26284.63 4.963854097 -30 19149 4.950518086 -25 14127.68 4.933166097 -20 10504.68 4.910527969 -15 7721.35 4.879055954 -10 5720.88 4.838133512 -5 4284.03 4.786165799 0 3240.18 4.721119717 5 2473.6 4.640900563 10 1905.87 4.543692515 15 1486.65 4.429695182 20 1168.64 4.296344225 25 926.71 4.144091368 30 739.98 3.972492431 35 594.9 3.782907287 40 481.53 3.577860996 45 392.57 3.361217186 50 322.17 3.136573398 55 266.19 2.908608143 60 221.17 2.68039363 65 184.72 2.455599277 70 155.29 2.239608872 75 131.38 2.035132288 80 112.08 1.846579676 85 96.4 1.674774149 90 82.96 1.511882199 95 71.44 1.359001674 100 61.92 1.222169588 105 54.01 1.100403407 110 47.24 0.989775394 115 41.42 0.889528391 120 36.51 0.800974069 125 32.38 0.723478416 130 28.81 0.654148313 135 25.7 0.591893137 140 23 0.536380597 145 20.68 0.487551867 150 18.59 0.442640126 155 16.74 0.40213318 160 15.11 0.365841848 165 13.66 0.333073247 170 12.38 0.303758956 175 11.25 0.277572169 180 10.24 0.253917873
  • Create New...