Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You cut the sensor out of the std rb25 AFM and you put the sensor in to a 3in pipe because the std one is 2.5in so this means that less air will go past the sensor,has anyone done this before.

Similar to what Autospeed did except they used a seperate bypass pipe then the digital fuel adjuster to get the A/F mixtures correct.

In theory it should work the same way, just don't damage the AFM hotwires!

You cut the sensor out of the std rb25 AFM and you put the sensor in to a 3in pipe because the std one is 2.5in so this means that less air will go past the sensor

umm... no it doesnt

have you looked at an AFM before?

You'll see that changing the diameter wont affect it at all as the AFM wire is in the middle of the AFM itself.

The amount of air going isnt going to change

I think it would, wouldn’t the wire measure the air and then calculate that by 2.5'' pipe

so if the pipe was 3'' the air would measure the same but there would be more air in the 3'' pipe then the 2.5'' pipe.??

I'm just guessing..

area of a 2.5" pipe = 31.6cm2

area of a 3" pipe = 45.5cm2

the bigger pipe will flow more air, but since the sensor only reads what goes though the little hole it sits in, then calculates how much air that is for the designated size of the pipe, when you put it into a bigger pipe it throws the calculations out and you end up with leaner mixtures.

as has been said, the AFM wire will indeed sense less amount of air, but all this will do will make the car run leaner as it will add less fuel. without tuning it would be useless. and given you'd have to tune, it makes sense to go z32 if you are going the whole hogg

btw.. nissan AFMs use a hot wire with variable resistances, right?

but since you generally have to run some form of either piggyback or full ecu to run a z32, i don't think that leaning out would be an issue since you have to get it tuned for the afm either way.

personally i'd just get an ecu that uses a map sensor.

just know about this a while ago....

found a webpage that did this...and in the same time...upgraded his injectors...

so i think there wouldnt be any problem if u cut off the AFM and fit it in a bigger pipe and in the same time fit in a bigger injectors....and tune it back to optimal settings....

i just dont see a problem with this MOD...

plus...u can save some cash....for budget drifters....

Edited by r32gt_rb20

Bah, pack of gurls! =)

There’s a risk, but in reality if you seal the sensor to the pipe well ( careful not to use any noxious adhesives that will eat the PCB) and tune it properly, ( piggy back, FC) it would be well impressive to get it working.

Perfect for the budget conscious.

That said, for $300 there’s no way i would risk my motor :D

M

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not going to lie. When I just saw this, for a moment I thought it was an interior shot of a VN Commodore...
    • Noice Once exhaust leak is sorted post vids for audible sexy time The thing should be a laugh riot to drive
    • Nah, apparently the way to do it is just mess with how much timing the engine uses to try to correct idle. So it massively undershoots, then overshoots, then undershoots, then overshoots. So timing is going from 5deg to 45deg to 5 deg to 45deg. But I kinda prefer the car to not lurch around and have a dependable idle. Given it didn't idle for shit and stalled about 7 times on the way home, still yet to drive it for the 2nd time to see if it's fixed.
    • Best chop idle FTW, just add an idle timing hole lol
    • Alright. Many little things have been sorted and the car successfully drove home with an incredibly huge exhaust leak. Unsure if it's simply been awhile, but new heads and cam and intake sound f**kin awesome. It might only be me that notices it though, and it's hard to tell from a 15 minute gauntlet run home and attempting to bleed the radiator. Undertrays on, tools out, road brake pads in, idle un-f***ed, time to do some road tuning. From my commute around town it sounds and drives *really* nice (with a max of like 35% throttle). It'll go to a dyno for a proper before and after once the tune is more roughly dialled in. And @Dose Pipe Sutututu I did learn how to do a proper chop tune at idle. I did indeed even do it, but the car shaking around at idle from the driverr seat made me make it smooth again.. I feared for my engine mounts and clerances to engine bay jank. . After the exhaust is fixed I may mess around with it more. I'm just happy to have it drive around without bucking or stalling which is a WIP.
×
×
  • Create New...