Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i hav currently ordered a bunch of parts for my car and got it booked in soon to be fitted and tuned however i was planning on getting a power fc and now that they have been discontinued and cant find one anywhere i was wandering, what other management systems u guys can recomend ? and how much id be looking at not to keen on spending 4 grand +

cheers sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144988-engine-management-systems/
Share on other sites

i got a haltech E11V2 in the GTR... should be able to get one fitted and tuned well under the 4 grand...

Thats the best looking option for GTR from what ive seen :)

Although in saying that, i use Microtech LT-12s currently and after its tuned properly, no problems from it

There are heaps of options out there, like Paul said, there's a million PowerFC's out there, have a look for the DJetro version before buying the normal one though, they dont use AFM's so you can take one possible problem out of the car :)

Hope that helps

bump has anyone heard of the ems tuning systems thinking about ordering one today

Don't order _anything_ based on the opinion of some unknown Internet person.

Unfortunately, everyone on the Internet has an opinion (and many of those are wrong).

Now ignore the above advice and read on :P

I'd do it the other way - select a tuner, have a chat with them, decide whether they are

who you want to tune your car. Once you know which tuner you want to use, find out

what they recommend and are comfortable with... and purchase that.

Regards,

Saliya

I think it's a myth there is 'plenty of powerfc around' .. I'm not sure whether it's right to be saying that, when it may be true (installed in cars), but trying buying one right now!

I can barely see any that have been put up for sale in the last month or so, therefore that doesn't make them 'readily available' to me.. they will become rare and expensive over the next few years, unless something better comes along.

GET A V500 WOLF. DEFINATELY ONE OF THE BEST IMO ONE OF MY NOYZ WORKS AT RANK ROTARY IN VICTORIA AND HIS BOSS IS LIKE ONE OF THE LEADING WOLF TUNERS.

IT HAS WAY MORE TUNING POINTS THAN A POWER FC IT BEEN COMPARED TO MOTEC SYSTEMS AS WELL. THEY ARE f**kING EXPENSIVE BUT DEFINATELY WORTH THE WAD OF CASH THAT U WILL BE DEPARTING WITH

GET A V500 WOLF. DEFINATELY ONE OF THE BEST IMO ONE OF MY NOYZ WORKS AT RANK ROTARY IN VICTORIA AND HIS BOSS IS LIKE ONE OF THE LEADING WOLF TUNERS.

IT HAS WAY MORE TUNING POINTS THAN A POWER FC IT BEEN COMPARED TO MOTEC SYSTEMS AS WELL. THEY ARE f**kING EXPENSIVE BUT DEFINATELY WORTH THE WAD OF CASH THAT U WILL BE DEPARTING WITH

So in comparing a WOLF to a Motec you would be under the impression that it has accurate control of four camshafts along with electronic throttle control? I'm not a big fan of either managment systems but I know where to draw the line. And tuning points has little to do with tuning accuracy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...