Rb20det Silvertop, Loom, Ecu, 5 Spd G/box With 2 Month Old Daiken 5 Puk Clutch, R200 Lsd Package For Sale.
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From what I understand, stock internals should hold out for a while even if you run 500 at the crank, no? Especially if you don't run a modern turbo setup that reaches power and torque much earlier than the original twins. My engine isn't unopened either, it has N1 Pumps, head oil restrictor, new crank and cams, new piston rings, ARP head studs and Cometic headgasket along with 2860-5s. Considering everything is healthy this should run fine for a while I assume. Once my engine stops leaking shit everywhere, it'll be tuned to 370 crank first anyway, because I need to legalize the turbo setup. If I end up needing a new engine because my block actually has an issue, even though GTSboy was adamant that the whole porous block story is nonsense, before putting an engine in I'm probably gonna take care of the weakspots. -
By soviet_merlin · Posted
Hah, I have no issues with what you are doing whatsoever! You clearly know what you are getting yourself into. It's just funny reading things like this. "What's that noise?" "Oh, that's normal. That's just the engine not getting any oil. Nothing to worry about. It'll go away in a moment" -
Yeah I'm keeping an eye on it and might take it out as a once off if this doesn't fully charge. I did some research that said it's normal in equalisation charging. Voltage I thought was 20+ (faulty battery in multimeter) but now its on 15.9v, the max it should go to is 16.2v as per the manual. I'll provide an update once hopefully it's actually fully charged and in float mode. Waiting for it to go to 16.2v and not higher and see what happens. What I suspect has happened is that even though it's not an old battery, I did leave the car turned off for almost 4 weeks at one point then left it off for another 2 weeks which might have erroded the battery and is taking a long time to do this equlisation charge. -
I wouldn't be using the seats a lot since it's on Historic rego and will not be driven a lot, however I also don't want to fork out 3k for something that won't last. Havent looked at BRZ seats, aiming for something of the same era I did speak to him on the phone once, and I do see your point haha. How many kms do you think you drove before they started wearing out? Just had a look at yours, certainly looking for a reclinable version. The Brides don't look too bad! I would still like to sit in one just to make sure it's what I'm after. Thanks for the replies fellas. -
I bought my Bride reps from Crank Motorsport. He is, um, a trifle disorganised. I would have to look back at the e-mails to make sure I got it right, but I think he sent me normal fabric ones when I ordered the "Alcantara" ones. So he had to pay for shipping 3x and I'm sure that f**ked him off big time. And asking technical questions where nuanced English is required is a no go. It's simple English only. And....should I have bought the Alcantara ones? Well, as it turns out, they are great, feel great, etc, but the fabris wore through on the point of the waist bolster in <2 years. Must have caught a rip from a rivet on jeans or shorts, or something like that. So now I have to patch it somehow. A bit shit. My fault, ultimately, because it is Chinesium Faux Alcantara, not the real thing, and it turns ot that it has the tear resistance of a soggy tissue. But the seats and the reails are great. I probably should have gotten the R34 style ones, and now that they price is up in that ridiculous sort of number, I could have sold them for a profit!
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