Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just installed a new turbo on my RB20. the latest problem is a slight oil leak i cant get rid of, coming from the oil feed on the turbo side. iv tried new washers and material washers. And it still leaks so slightly. The bolt is a banjo bolt.. has any 1 had this problem before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145010-turbo-oil-feed-leak/
Share on other sites

what type of turbo did you install? is it oil cooled only?

if so the oil restrictor needs to be changed as ball bearing units need less oil than plain/journal/oil cooled only, so you need to adjust the restrictor

just installed a new turbo on my RB20. the latest problem is a slight oil leak i cant get rid of, coming from the oil feed on the turbo side. iv tried new washers and material washers. And it still leaks so slightly. The bolt is a banjo bolt.. has any 1 had this problem before?

Other people have wrote on this forum that it needs to be super tight, so use a breaka bar and use plenty of leverage and tighten the sh1t out of it.

Do a search on anneal, you may come up with something.

Essentially you use a gas torch or your mum's gas stove to heat your copper washers to a cherry red colour and then drop them in cold water.

I'll see if I can find my diatribe on this topic and add a link.

Go here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=anneal

Also I agree with Grigor, you use a breaker bar and you risk stripping the thread in your turbo housing, then you will be up that creek and in that barbed wire canoe and not a paddle in sight!!!!!!

  • 13 years later...

Related topic but I'm not using banjo bolts, using stainless steel 7/16 -24 inverted flare.

I know this is pretty basic but im having trouble sealing the turbo oil feed fitting 100%, its not leaking leaking but after a drive there is a small amount of oil around the fitting half a drop or less you can see slight discoloring.20201004_145114.jpg.db3939fc2e7db3c3dd4add355d61d5f9.jpg

First time, I installed it was worse the fitting leaked slighty so removed and found a small bit of grit in the thread cleaned and reinstalled was much better. After a few drives i found again a smaller amount of oil around the fitting, this time removed cleaned and reinstalled a little bit tighter then before and it was much better but again a very slight amount of oil (less then before) (above pic) around the fitting.

has anyone else had trouble installing a stainless steel  7/16 -24 inverted flare.

How tight are you suppose to tighten the fitting?

Or anything else i can try?

 

Edited by dyl33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
    • If you want the screaming "weeeee" sound, just let the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo break a little. It'll go "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" everytime its on boost...
×
×
  • Create New...