Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've got quotes for my front DBA rotors (32gtr), the 4000 series slot kanga all pawn something for $240 each, is it good?

Also Bendix Ultimate for $120 a set front and rear.

Thanks

West :D

For the price of those pads i would go racebrakes RB74's

I just got RDA gold slotted and dimpled, throught these forums, for a very decent price but I am not allowed to quote pricing in here... check user rs73's group buy in the classified section... however I am not sure how they compare in performance to the DBA's...

For the price of those pads i would go racebrakes RB74's

I run RDA slotted street rotors. I've heard people saying that they have seen them crack through the grooves as they go to the very outside edge. I've abused these for close to 15000km's and have had no problems. I've seen the DBA ones crack, but that was due to other influences instead of regular driving.

I've run RB74's on the street as well as track use. I don't rate them very highly. They are fine for a few fast laps, but then they seem to give you a spongy pedal. This was with Motol RBF600 and braided lines with rebuilt calipers. I managed to split the friction material which then broke away from the backing plate. They also got very crumbly. They also chew up your rotors pretty good when they are cold.

I spoke to The guys at race brakes and they told be that I was over heating them too much. My understanding was that they were a race pad suitable up to 650deg F. The pads also warped. The centre section of the friction material was starting to scallop out. I was aware that this might happen when they drop below 50%, but these were up around the 75%.

Racebrakes Comp 2 pads are awesome. I've never had any problems with them. They seem to last and don't fall to bits. Great bite, even when cold.

yeah i never recommended them for the track. There are better pads out there.

But track or street, they are a better pad than the bendix ultimates at that price range

I've just pad $120 for bendix Ultimates. The RB74's I'm looking at $185. I'd prefer the Ultimates. Better cold bite, less noise, less dust. Don't chew out rotors when cold.etc

What pads do you think are better for the track??? Before we head dowm the Green/Black stuff pads, they out-gas pretty fast and you end up with glazed rotors pretty quickly. I also cannot use them on my slotted rotors as the outgassing fills up the slots, rendering them useless! For $300+ pr, I'd like something that was substancially better.

Get a price on the ultimates at repco Khoa. I got mine for $100 a pair, after just being quoted $130 at autobarn. I went to repco asked for a price, they asked me if I had any other quotes...I said autobarn said $120.

Repco said, RRP is $144 on the computer, so i'll do em for $100 a set .

Justin went to his repco the next day and told them that I got them for $100 a set, so they did his for $90 :kiss:

They've also beaten SK's GB prices on all the whiteline stuff so far, and thats without me even trying to get the price down...just ask for a quote, and they were cheaper :huh:

Get a price on the ultimates at repco Khoa. I got mine for $100 a pair, after just being quoted $130 at autobarn. I went to repco asked for a price, they asked me if I had any other quotes...I said autobarn said $120.

Repco said, RRP is $144 on the computer, so i'll do em for $100 a set .

Justin went to his repco the next day and told them that I got them for $100 a set, so they did his for $90 :kiss:

They've also beaten SK's GB prices on all the whiteline stuff so far, and thats without me even trying to get the price down...just ask for a quote, and they were cheaper :huh:

WTF, awesome Dezz man, shall do. Thanks.

hmm i paid 120 for the rb74's, good cold bite and no noise whatsoever, which is what turned me off the ultimates aswell.

I use project mu pads for hard braking, they are awesome.

Ultimates are farking squeaky!

i've had them for the last 2000km and i was at a point considering changing them back to stock street pads :)

I got my DBA slotted through my mechanic for $214 each ;)

i've got ultimates on my commodore and never had any problems with squeaking. If they make noise i woud say they haven't been bedded in properley. do get alot of dust with them though......

I always thought rda's were the better ones as the dba's crack.....

DBA4926 is for 32gtr.

This is the 4000 series with slot.

Also i've managed to find them for $200 each. Still searching.

Got the pricing in for mine today. I think I will go the 4000's instead of the 5000's as the cost difference is significant and this car is eating $$ at the moment :(

Going to go for Ferodo DS2500 pads

Interestingly, I learnt today, A good brake fluid is as important as good pads. Always thought fluid was fluid but if you have great brakes but crap fluid that boils, it defeats the object of the kick ass brakes in the first place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Both windows operate normally while the engine is running but start to sag as soon as I switch off.  Does anyone know of reasonably priced replacements or other brands that will fit?
    • Actually PowerFC is probably the easiest to get basic data from, it comes with a hand controller and display so you don't need to remember to pack a laptop every time you drive. It also has a PC based viewing/logging option if required. Nissan used consult on these because back in the mid 80s, ODB was just a glint in a standard's body's eyes.  They switched to OBD shape around 2000 (my 2001 Cima had OBD shaped but not OBD compliant port) With the standard ECU there is a cable and software available to give basic data too, I think it is called Nissan Data Scan or s
    • Given by the sheer number of questions about offset, absolutely not. If you had the information formatted this way: Space from R34 GTT hub to outer arch = 100mm Space from R34 GTT inner hub to nearest suspension arm = 90mm. (making this up) Buying a wheel that was advertised as Enkei RPZ5 Diameter 18in Width 9 Distance to arch = 84mm Distance to suspension arm = 76mm 100% of people would know instantly if it fits. They would absolutely also know instantly how close it fits too, and no questions would need to be asked. You would know you would have 16mm from the guard and 14mm from the suspension arm.
    • Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
×
×
  • Create New...