Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you'd be best off doing the dump/front pipe as well. then you would have to run it at stock boost as it would flow more air than the stock one, so if you went higher you may hit rich and retard. other than that it would be fine.

as he sed, finish ur exhaust, buy a boost controller and an ecu and tune it. i wudnt run it for too long or give it too hard until uve tuned it, just to be on the safe side.

Edited by moonus

im running slide hiflow,full 3" exhaust n dump, cooler,walbro pump and about 14psi...it feels good but the stock ecu holds the hiflow back something bad..i mean i can barely pull away from stock 33's that are running cooler/exhaust and 14psi :laugh:

Edited by l0WRB

Ive got a highflow, sitting there waiting to go on (found a R34 gcg highflow at a price i couldnt pass up).

batmbl split dump and highflow cat

catback 3in

Turbosmart eboost 2

I ran my standard turbo at 10psi for only short periods. Would the highflow move more air at stock boost than the standard at 10psi?

Im thinking if i run it at standard boost, and set the wastgate pressure to open up at low boost (eboost 2 gate pressure function), will this be ok to cruise around with for a while. Then i can sell my stocko turbo and get FMIC or more likely a PFC while they are still around. Also on the cards is fuel pump and injectors when the $$$s allow.

cheers

Evil

Edited by EvilINGT

I realise that boost is only relative to each specific turbo. Which is why i ask if a gcg highflow moves more air at stock wastegate pressure than the standard turbo at 10psi.

Which also leads to the question, what boost is the wastegate spring set to on A- a r34 turbo, and B- a r34 gcg highflow turbo (sydneykid some help maybe :D )

cheers

Evil

  • 5 weeks later...

ok.. if i have roughly $500 to spend on after turbo upgrade.. what will be the best thing to spend it on? keep in mind.. i only have catback and fmic. cause it doens't look like i'll be able to afford a new ecu for awhile.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
    • I have personally seen a Tomei USA RB26 cam that didn't even fit the head. Kind of nuts to me that it was even possible for that to happen but such is life.  There's two UP Garages in the US. One is a US branch of the Japanese company which sells things they brought over at tremendous markup. The other is University Place Garage/Fairlady Motors which is a shop best known for putting VCAM in RBs and trying to convince people to stop putting in 800hp of turbo on a 2.5L motor.
    • Gasless MIG is not exactly suited to what I would call "delicate" or "attractive" welding. So I would rule it out for sheet metal rust repair type stuff, unless you're only doing it in hidden places. I'm thinking about getting myself a gasless MIG for "hack together" type work. Noting that my welding experience is very very low, and quite a long time ago. So I'm also looking for "simple", but I'm not expecting "excellent". I'm not even sure that proper MIG is the best for sheet metal work. I get the feeling that the degree of control and the minimisation of heat input that you get from TIG is probably what you really want. And then you have to get good at doing it before the welds won't look like a monkey flinging a handful of shit anyway. You're probably SOL for an easy and cheap way to get from where you are to where you want to be. Much like myself.
    • Any recommendations for what would be the easiest welding type to start on, for sheet metal rust repairs and maybe some exhaust piping too? Seems like MIG is the most common. Would gasless MIG be ok to learn on and do some simple jobs? I have a stick welder which has a Lift TIG setting, but i'm more interested in getting whatever's easiest to do, and most suitable, rather than using what i have.
    • Is the UP Garage in the US of Ayyeee even the real UP Garage?
×
×
  • Create New...