Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, had to remove some intercooler piping on my car the other day and I took it for a drive after and I noticed my water temp gauge was about 20degrees hotter than what it usually gets to (was going through drive-through). Had a look under the engine bay and sure enough the piping had moved forward and was stopping the radiator fan from spinning.

Loosened a hose clamp and pushed the piping back towards the firewall and retightened but last night it must've come loose somehow (could be the slippery paint finish on piping) and had stopped the fan again (thank god for the water temp gauge).

I've seen some set-ups that have a bracket welded onto the intercooler piping and it secures to the cam cover. Are there any other options? Who makes front facing plenums for Rb20dets and how much are they?

ALso my thermo fan doesnt work (looks like the wiring has been cut). Is this easy to hook back up or should I take it to an auto elec?

It never over heats but I figure having the thermo working would be even better?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145111-fmic-piping-hitting-radiator-fan/
Share on other sites

is it a just jap cooler kit?i just installed one, i thought that would be a problem but after a good thrash the piping hasnt moved. best thing to do would be to make a bracket

as far as plenums plazmamann make a plenum kit that relocates the throttle bodyso it is facing the front of the car. its about 800 or something. imo if you are not chasing huge power it is a waste of money. just make a bracket

if you dont know what wires to connect to where go to a auto electrician and they will sort it out quickly

just a side question. afte installing your cooler are the cooler pipes in the engine hot?

Hey Oliver, thanks for your reply.

It's just custom piping (the FMIC was already on there when i bought the car). It never came loose before but I had to take off some piping to get to something on my engine and now the piping is moving and hitting the fan.

"just a side question. afte installing your cooler are the cooler pipes in the engine hot?" If you mean the intercooler piping that is under the engine bay, close to the engine, then yes mine gets a bit hot too.

soemone told me to do the same thing, but to me that looks dodgy as hell! make a bracket and push the cooler piping away from the fans as much as possible

We cut the fan blades back on my r33 using a little alloy template we made. Not dodgy if you do it right. What is dodgy is when the fan continues to hit the piping regularly and fractures the fan blades! Thats what happened to mine, had to buy a complete fan unit to replace it, not cheap!

Does the thermo have anything to do with the air con? Normally on cars thay have a fan that runs for the a/c as well as an engine cool fan?

Hey,

I dont know if it has been mentioned but when i had this problem i used a bit of rough sand paper that i had stuck on the pipe where it was hitting the fan blades. This sanded away the fan blades after a few days.

Also it pays to make sure that all the hoses are tight and that the pipes are deep inside the joiners so there is little to no play in the pipes.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys im in the same situation. If you cut the blades down on the fan is it still roadworthy? Also if you cut a hole for the cooler piping underneath battery is that roadworthy this is for a 34?

Thanks guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did a bit of googling, the color MCM used was Galaxy Grey from House of Kolor. This is actually a colour I picked out about ~10+ years ago (or more). This one is a stock BMW colour, I guess over the years I figured it was smart to get an OEM colour that was pretty common for all of those sensible reasons one can think of..
    • I absolutely love having clean wheels and also totally love cleaning them. Its not as important to me to have a clean car exterior as it is to have clean wheels. So I bought a kit. I generally use different products for my wheels than anything else, so I thought I'd buy a proper kit and bucket to keep it all in. I got this one from Waxit. I also got the CQuartz wheel and plastic ceramic along with a bunch more application micro fibre pads as CQuartz never provide enough.  The kit was good, but as usual the big, long spongey thing didn't fit between my spokes, so I needed to use a detailing brush and a larger brush that I already owned (been doing this forever, the spokes on these wheels are frustrating.) I did a full clean with the wheel cleaner, it has an iron killing product in it, so I found that I could just use the cleaner and nothing else on the wheels. The tyre cleaner and handled brush were awesome. Made cleaning the tyres so easy. Once everything was clean, I decontaminated with isopropyl and applied the ceramic. Two coats. I bought 2 bottles as I have a lot of wheels to do, half of one bottle did two coats on these. The X5 has 20's so I reckon probably 3/4 on that. Then, for possibly the best part, the wheel cleaning kit comes with a tyre black applicator. But, this is possibly the greatest sponge of all time - its a great size, quite stiff and HAS A COVER! When you finish applying the black, you just put the cover back on! This is revolutionary, I normally have to try and find safe places to put my tyre black applicators as they are covered in silicone and tyre crap. Or, you use something which just falls apart. This applicator is the bee's knee's. Get one. It's worth it. The tyre black is also like a cream, its very thick but goes on really thin, its very easy to use with the applicator. Ayway, after a big clean, decontam, ceramic coat and tyre black the wheels went back on and they look awesome.   Thought I'd share. 
    • Haha. Good work. I feel some of your pain because I spent a bunch of time under my car over the period too. Probably nowhere near as much as you did. My happiness is similarly improved by obtaining a desired result though. Those side skirts are.....hecking. Very unfriendly for street and hoist. Sounds to me like you've made a cart that needs to be driven up only planks/blocks at a 2 post hoist, rather than trying to get it up onto a 4 poster. It's very pretty, by the way. Somewhat reminiscent of Marty's squid ink on SuperGramps - at least in the photos.
    • Absolute Legend 🍻 After fighting with the scanned ones for the last 10 years this is a God send 
    • ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne.
×
×
  • Create New...