Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so I finally have an RB25DET sitting in the garage waiting patiently to be installed into the ceff... The wrecker I bought it off had reason to believe it had been sitting for maybe a year, some of wich was outside not under cover. It's also unclear to me if the engine was properly sealed i.e inlet and exhaust plugged up.

When he first did the comp test the engine was hard to initially turn over, then showed some irregular results 145-165.

After a few more rotations it showed 165-170.

My questions are these-

Is it likely that there was some form of corrosion build up in the bores from having the engine sit unused for so long? Will this burn off without any harm to compression? should the engine be 'free' enough to turn by hand?

not good if rain was getting inside the engine, but if the compression numbers are up around where they should be, it must have been fairly well protected. how bad is the corrosion on the motor?

Pull the motor down

Only way to tell.

If it's corroded, it's a bad engine, basically, throw it away.

My uncle bought a 1UZFE and couldn't bore it enough to get rid of pitting that the water did to the engine.

I'm not really worried about actual water droplets getting into the engine... More so that it was left to 'breathe' if you will. There is a little bit of that white chalky corrosion on the aluminum parts like the inlet manifold and front cover on the turbo.

What would the reason be for the initial comp test yeilding bad results, and the second one very good results? Crud around the top of the piston and rings?

Am I worrying too much? lol

was the compression test done with the motor hot? compression tests cant be done on a cold motor as the readings are inaccurate. has to do with the expansion of the metal rings, pistons and block. May be why the results varied....

initial ones prob had no oil presure, then slowly as it built it got more *relative* if you will, either way i bought an rb20 in such condition, held just under 200rwkw awsum compresion, unless there was actual water in the bores and left to fill up/sit there with it in, i doubt you will have much troubles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
  • Create New...