Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

V-spec came with slightly harder suspension and active rear diff.

When you upgrade the suspension there is no difference, and since they are getting old that is almost a necessity.

The active diff is poo if it stops working and is no faster anywhere while the std has a nicely setup 2-way LSD.

On R34 it has underbody diffusers and a deeper front lip.

On R32 it has Brembos and nicer 17" wheels.

Don't waste money on V-spec unless R34.

This was covered a month ago.

Can anyone 100% confirm this?

Is it possible that a Series II only got the red trimming on the seats but, no Xenons? if in fact this is true, is there a way of adding Xenon lights in the future?

Only series III got xenons.

You can add them sure. $2000.

32 vspec 2 might b worth it, and brembos were certainly a worthy upgrade for a 32.

owning an active lsd that hasnt mess'd yet i can tell you, its slightly more everyday friendly but still locks efficiently until it blows, then its supposed to be expensive..... let you know if i ever blow mine but considering i dont do burnouts mine should prolly last 4 yonks considering my car wont ever make enough power to exceed it's limitations... i think

Serious II? Must be a limited model *S* jk

frankxinyu, Whats the difference in driveabilty V-Spec Vs Std GTR?

haha i dont know what i was thinking...haha spelling fixed.

i have not driven a normal R33 GTR, so i couldnt tell u sorry. but as ppl sated, there are some minor difference

Can anyone 100% confirm this?

Is it possible that a Series II only got the red trimming on the seats but, no Xenons? if in fact this is true, is there a way of adding Xenon lights in the future?

Yes it is if someone has changed them, only series III had red seats. You can fit xenons to any 33 GTR ( with a slight mod) but they are very expensive even second hand in Japan. Halogens are O.K. as long as they are not converted xenons and you can make them a lot brighter by feeding 14 volts to them direct and use a rely to trigger them on.

There are a few little other differences in the series III as well. the front lip is different ( lower ) than S II and S I and the brake ducts are thicker. The front passengers blinker /vent is different , the fuse box cover has GTR on it, thats all i can think of now but i'm sure i missed something .

As Geoff said the struts are harder and about 5mm lower than none V-spec, Attessa pro, ALSD and the cluster and finned diff.

the series II gtr i am buying has red stiching in the front and rear seats?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=145115

Dude if this is the car , looks like its a series II with series III seats, looks like its not a V-spec either.

I knew i forgot something series III cars have a rear fog light as well, so only one reversing light.

That is definitely NOT the car I am buying!

The car I am buying is a 97 GTR V-Spec with the LSD light on the dash, red stiching on both the front seats and rear seats and also has a red reverse light on the RH rear of the car.

Well thats probably a series III with the xenons removed for compliance . How long has it been in the country? The reason i ask is because under the old system you wouldn't have to remove the xenons, only under sevs . Have a look at the front lip/brake ducts and the front left ( passengers side)blinker grill, as i said they are different in the III, what about the fuse box cover? What month 97 ?

The red light is NOT reverse light, its a fog light.

I'm currently looking at a 96 model 33 GTR V-spec and it has Xenons (listed as factory in the sale info), am I to believe that these are not genuine? The pictures certainly show Xenons.

Back to the topic,

My understanding of main V-Spec differences were,

ATTESA E-TS PRO

10mm lower and firmer suspension

Active LSD

LSD and ATTESA Pro combine to allow torque split left and right as well as front to back ike a standard GTR. It seems to be a big debate about it's merit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...