Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PwrFC VS Microtech?

any experiences or opinions, plz post input

which is better , which runs better, is more cost effective versus adding more mods etc.

and for a Daily driver.. wouldnt it be better to actually keep the afm? for fuel consumption reasons, in different temperatures?.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145451-pwrfc-or-microtech/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not really the results im lookin for..

I know there is LOADS of info on the PFC on these boards.. Not so much about the Microtech on a skyline though..

what i really want is a comparison. I mean.. the PFC was originally designed with Skylines in mind.. wasnt it?.. could be wrong there.. but also the microtech has good self learning features so ive been told,

so i need a comparison, cause im tryin to work out which route im going..

i mean i can get the PFC, get it tuned at pits or somethin, prob cost me 1600 total.

Or i can get the Micro, from Microtech to suit my rb25det, then fully tuned buy my tuners. for 2k flat.

just wondering.. is it better to spend the extra 400$. and i mean, wat if the PFC is better for the skyline..

so can anyone Compare the 2? and point out your reasons for the results.

Depends whether you want air flow readings or Air pressure, they both have their adv and dis but in reality it is what your tuner would prefer.

The microtech being Manifold Air Pressure sensor (MAP) is hesistant around zero pressure, this is a hard area to tune compared to a Manifold Air Flow (MAF) which can determine quite easy if it is flowing or not.

Depends whether you want air flow readings or Air pressure, they both have their adv and dis but in reality it is what your tuner would prefer.

The microtech being Manifold Air Pressure sensor (MAP) is hesistant around zero pressure, this is a hard area to tune compared to a Manifold Air Flow (MAF) which can determine quite easy if it is flowing or not.

Good point,

Yea tuner good with em, Might go with the FC, but hmmm, hard decision. will have to find a tuner for the FC . its a daily driver, not a race car.

Thanks for your comments guys! :D

Edited by silverbulletR33

I'm using a microtech LT-8. Crappy fuel economy, crappy cold start. Not such a fantastic ECU for a daily driver. Power FC is prolly the way to go as in my opinion microtech is more of a racing ecu. So yea, PFC is probably the go for you, except i have a thing against AFM's (don't know why, i just do).

www.nengun.com

www.ebay.com

Still plenty around, just have a look.

nengun doesn't have any in stock.. ebay ? you actually looked for an rb25 one? ZERO. The only ones that are around, are the ones that haven't updated their stock levels properly. When you ask 'no sorry, don't have that model anymore, have the others'

"plenty around" my ass...

had a microtech on my s1 33 gtst actually was the first in adelaide to have their 'plug n play' setup. in short it was very poor as a daily driver, mostly cause it did not have enough adjustment for cold start idle up etc. but as alredy stated, fine for a race/weekend only car. oh yeah and definately agree that your tuner is EVERYTHING when dealing in aftermarket ecu. my choice PFC :)

I have tuned quite a few of both, and unless it has 1000hp and the afm is casing a restriction, the pfc has many more features than the microtec, and will return better fuel economy/cold start/drivability with far less tuning. Most dyno shops can tune a pfc, and many have datalogit, if they cant, i wouldnt let them tune my car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...