Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you find it annoying to constantly turn your TCS off?

Do you wish it defaulted to 'TCS Off' the second you started your car?

If you answered yes to either of those questions, this is for you!!!!!

The device when fitted to your car will instantly turn off the traction control, you now have to press the button to turn it on! (reverses the factory setup) The circuit can also be wired so that it's selectively on (great if your girlfriend is going to drive the car and you want TCS to come on the second she turns the key!!!!!!)

Easy to wire with only 3 wires to the ECU in the boot:

Only $30 + Postage

TCS-Stopper.jpg

Actual unit may vary slightly from picture, new improved wiring version only has 3 wires!!!

Not that im that lazy,, im not to bothered presing the button, but, if it automatically turns off, does this mean the ""TSC OFF"" dash light is always on????

And isnt it just as easy to remove the fuse :)

Awesome work on finding it though

Yes 'TCS Off' is the default.

It's not as simple as removing a fuse, I wouldn't recommend taking a fuse out, this actually buggers up a few of the other systems that rely on the TCS and will give the SLIP light as well as the car detects an error. You also can't turn it on if you decide you want to, you'd have to mess around replacing a fuse.

The other benefit is the switch still works, just in reverse...you press to turn on. This circuit just reverses the operation of the switch

It took me a while to build these a fair bit of trial and error :)

Yeah its a pain in the ass turning tcs off, or sometimes i forget and try to light the wheels and it stalls :) were bouts you located? i'll take one...

Yeah its a pain in the ass turning tcs off, or sometimes i forget and try to light the wheels and it stalls :) were bouts you located? i'll take one...

Exactly what I mean!!!! I find I get owned on corners where the car *thinks* it would be a good idea to drop engine power.

I'm located in Brisbane, PM your details and I'll get one on it's way.

Wiring is fairly simple, much like an SAFC or similar, except it's only 3 wires to the ECU in the boot, the unit mounts behind the panel alongside the HICAS computer.

Only $30 will prevent you from forgetting to press your TCS button and looking like a chump as you get flogged by a barina and your car is still thinking about giving 3 cylinders back to you.

Not with anything over stock power, slows you down by kicking in all the time. It sucks!!!

Or if you have a valve body upgrade :laugh:

Only $30 will prevent you from forgetting to press your TCS button and looking like a chump as you get flogged by a barina and your car is still thinking about giving 3 cylinders back to you.

I bet I'll still be beaten by a Barina

Also Dan, missed your MSN message the other night - I'll take you up on your offer :rofl: Cheers!

Installation will happen tonight - will post up results tomorrow morning! Now it's just a matter of turn the key then slide; instead of turn the key flip switches like you're in a fighter plane then slide :)

On the topic of the ABS though; what happens if your car does not have ABS or it was removed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but 2 things of the top of my head, 1. Legalities of nitrous on a street car. 2. No chop chop. I fully understand that there's much cheaper ways to make power, and whilst a wet 50 shot is fairly cheap to install, bottle fills are expensive, and bottles always need to be refilled, and nitrous also has its own inherent issues with reliability, and tuning, from my experience of others using nitrous, it doesn't take alot to lunch a engine real quick if something goes slightly wrong when spraying, if I wanted a big chunk of additional powers, a spooly boy would make alot more sense, disregarding the additional engineering, supporting mods and other logistical issues of sticking a spooly boy on a car that came naturally aspirated from factory  In the end I'm not racing for sheep stations, and I don't really care if people make more power, or are faster than me, or spend less, or more than me, the only thing the car needs to do is drive around and make me smile, which it is doing now Really, I just want a shiny new intake to look at when I'm cleaning the engine bay, and of course, some more induction doorts, and maybe even that 5kw for that elusive 200hp cherry on top that I might get If the FAB9 intake plenum, TB and air filter box thing doesn't eventuate for whatever reason, Plasmaman do one, not as fancy looking, and a fair chunk of more cash is required when including the TB and other bits and pieces that are required to install it, but, it is another option that is available to me if FAB9 one does fall down (but I really, really.....really, want the FAB9 one though) TL;DR. You want what you want
    • Been so long since I have been here,seeing SDU is dead. I had that problem on my gtr in 2006 but luckily there was no engine damage,it was inspected by Hytech Engines,race bearings and extended crank collar put in and that was about it. Hopefully yours is sorted now.
    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
×
×
  • Create New...