Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday.

has anyone experienced a blocked oil feed line to the turbo before? or a reason why no oil is getting to the turbo? maybe something on the block side blocking the oil feed?

basically after the install i took it for an easy drive round the block. after it warmed up i brought it slowly upto 3000rpm where the turbo starts its spool and got a dry whining sound. i killed it an rolled into my drive.

and notice smoke from the exh housing but it smelt alot like burning paint from the rebuild.

NOTE: i turned the engine over 8 times at 5sec lengths without it firing before i started it for the first time and let it sit and idle for 10min after i fired it up. also has new oil and coolant.

any ideas guys???

Yes, the factory line can get blocked. It only has a very small hole at one of the banjos so if the car wasn't looked after by a previous owner you may be paying the price. The factory banjos also have restrictors in them.

The easiest way to check if the turbo is getting oil is to just loosen the oil feed line at the turbo and see if oil spews out when you crank the car. Or just drop the oil return and see if oil is getting through that way.

Yes, the factory line can get blocked. It only has a very small hole at one of the banjos so if the car wasn't looked after by a previous owner you may be paying the price. The factory banjos also have restrictors in them.

The easiest way to check if the turbo is getting oil is to just loosen the oil feed line at the turbo and see if oil spews out when you crank the car. Or just drop the oil return and see if oil is getting through that way.

thats what i suspected.... would there be much damage?

considering the turbo unit was dripping oil when i fitted it. hoping that theres some lube there.

and that i only let it idle for 10 min with a 2min drive shifting gears at 2300rpm but pushed it slowly upto 3000rpm once then killed then ignition..... :)

gonna pull the oil feed hose off and get a new one made up at enzed soon as they open

its gotta be the only part i didnt go over before refitting, cos..... its a braded oil feed line...?!? :)

I'd be removing the oil supply line from the block and cranking the thing over (don't let it start) to see if oil is getting to this point . Should not be too messy with a rag at the ready . If this works ok I'd remove the oil line itself and blow through it to see if its blocked . Look for kinks or any signs of being crushed/burnt etc . It won't hurt to drip feed some CLEAN oil into the turbos oil inlet as well . Given time the oil should drip through the bearing housing and out the drain hole underneath - I'd remove the drain pipe to be sure .

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but ball bearings don't like being spun dry or nearly mainly because of the speed these ones run at . Its impossible to say if the bearings have been damaged or not . I think I'd want to at least remove the dump pipe and spin the thing with my fingers to see if it felt rough or for excess shaft movement . If not sure remove the unit and get it assessed by a specialist .

Cheers A .

good news is i did it right first time around... bad news is i have identified the sound as the original sound i heard 5 weeks ago and the reason i had the turbo rebuilt.... unfortunately its not the turbo bearings making the sound as i originally thought......... $1200 later :laugh:

anyways such is life and i have a higher spec turbo now.

maybe someone can enlighten me on some likely causes of this mysterious sound.

imagine a bandsaw in the distance, thats what it sounds like. its not too loud, the sucking of the air is maybe twice as loud. it only happens when boost is coming on and then fades away when u take your foot off the throttle and there is no performance loss. its definately coming from the left side of the engine bay.

and its definately not the sound of a failed exhaust gasket.

thanks guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Would be good in your car I reckon Johnny. Have seen reports they don't seem to love circuit use and sustained high RPM, but there's so many variables and implementations it's hard to tell fact from fiction.  All that said, is it worth it in this car given how you feel about it? Probs not? 
    • I don't know specifically. I *do* know that it is very likely that historically most/all undertray replacements remove the inner liners and people just run without them. When you are hectic (or serious) enough to really want/need a different undertray, you are probably also running wider, taller or different offset wheels and the guard liners are the first thing that rub (or as I said in the other thread, they blow out at high speeds anyway) Of course, that is before the pricing went nuts on R34s, nowdays it is much more likely people want/expect to retain the liners to protect their overall investment
    • Haven’t had a chance to drive it properly yet. It was rwd and pissing down rain when I drove it home and now it’s in the air with the so I can change the oil. Going to do the  gearbox oil while I’m at it as well, may even do the diffs 
    • On 12th June, the mechanic could not figure out what the issue was, but the car seems to be flooding with fuel. He was suspecting the tune, thus referred me to a tuner. Although the tuner is not familiar with Nistune, last Monday (30th June), he came over to try and re-map it. Despite the tuner trying to completely stop fuel, it kept sounding like it was pushing fuel. Tuner ended up suspecting either the ECU or Injectors. I do not believe the ECU or Nistune is the issue, as the Nistune software reads and communicates properly. Today, I removed the (new) injectors to see if they are clogged or leaking. Surprisingly enough, after those 3 days of driving, injectors 2 and 3 look very blocked. You can see the difference in the picture. I blew a bit on 3, that is why it doesn't look as clogged as 2. I am still unsure if this is what is causing the no start issue, but I am now feeling that I may have bought the injectors and Nistune without the need to do so, as the problem seems to be coming from somewhere else.  
×
×
  • Create New...