How Much Power = How Fast?

[backdog]

Ive just purchased an R32 gtst. It is the second one Ive owned, the first one was stock as a rock (exept small boost increase) My current one has full lenght 3" exhaust, hi-flow standard turbo, front mount, wolf ECU and 16 psi boost and makes 180rwkw. The thing is it doesnt seem much quicker than my old one. I was expecting to roll on boost in second gear and just start frying the tyres, but it just doesnt have the balls. I have been in another gtst with 220rwkw and it felt real fast. Is 40 extra kw that big of a difference?

[evil_weevil]

take it to a dyno to check things out?

[Devils_Advocate21]

What you want is torque and power not just power, the more power equates to faster increase in speed? but then again if it feels similar to the old one, take it to dyno and check things out, ie: another dyno different to the one you have been to? 40 rwkws you can feel the difference in yes, why not add cams to your next list or maybe fresh rebuilt and change a few more things.

[R31Nismoid]

I was expecting to roll on boost in second gear and just start frying the tyres, but it just doesnt have the balls.

Thats why your disappointed.

Your expecting things to happen... that... simply wont

If you dont expect it to fry the tyres (which it wont) and expect it to have a little more oomph over stock (which it does) then your pretty much aligned with what your car is doing.

I would suggest taking it to a reputable workshop, give it the once over with a few dyno runs and see what happens from there if your worried

[jazza08]

40rwkw = 53rwhp, which is a hell of alot different in the same car!

Alot easier to tyre fry with near 300rwhp in a 32 gtst than 240ish thats for sure, 2nd gear tyre fryin is abit over-rated. Traction is much better trust me! Things like tyre choices/condition and suspension are going to influence wheel spin too don't forget

[Munna1]

You will have a loss of downlow touque too mate as the highflow will be lagier. Touque is the what you acually feel when it come to accelleration. May not feel much quicker but I bet the speedo wips arround a whole lot faster

[psybic]

Its all about a good tune. Get the power happening as soon as you can! 16psi is alot for only 180rwkws

[Tangles]

16psi is alot for only 180rwkws

yeah thats what I thought. but then again it is only a 2.0ltr engine.

maybe get a compression test performed on the engine, and check things out with a few dyno runs.

maybe look into installing a set of cams, as previously suggested, and then a retune wouldnt go astray.

[Abo Bob]

My car has 260 rwkw and by planting it in 2nd gear unless the road is slippery or bumpy I will not fry the tyres. It just grips.

Also I drove Shonen's R34 with 290rwkw on friday and it grips in 2nd the same way.

Obviously I can fry the tyres on both if I want to but it doesn't happen by accident in a straight line on a good road.

[psybic]

To add to that... poor tunes add to lighting up rears. I lit up the rears before I had the microtech in the S12 by accident all the time... its a rather light car, with very hard suspension and lots of neg camber, so likes to slide.

Used to have a big flat spot due to running rich with stock ecu, this meant it would feel dead then take off like crazy once over 5000rpms... it just felt fast, but really had less power and was less useful.

I think accidental loss of traction is a BAD way of determining power.

[ali-turko]

my gfz gtst was on 173kw on 16psi that thing use to fry tyres in 2nd

[backdog]

the dyno run that has been done (not tune just a power run) said AFR's sat on about 11:1 at full boost. Is this to rich? thanks for the info guys, i think a tune is first thing i should do.

[markimak]

i wish my GTR would fry tyres.. it just goes...

but on a lighter note. i dont see why a GTST couldnt. how wide are the tyres. my GTR does in rwd mode up to 3rd with its old 245 yokos

Edited December 5, 2006 by markimak

[mad082]

it all comes down to tyre quality. i've had tyres that you could fry but snapping 3rd (in a magna) and then put better tyres on that would only just chirp second.

[GeeTR]

it all comes down to tyre quality. i've had tyres that you could fry but snapping 3rd (in a magna) and then put better tyres on that would only just chirp second.

100% agree - power delivery through tahbin type, tuning and right foot position is one thing, but spring rate, shock valveing and tyre TYPE (compound, age, sidewall thickness, amount of wear) play a mighty role

M

[123456]

You've got about 20 kilowatts more power than me (im using Dunlop SPMAXX's, a high performance tyre with a very soft tyre compound, that grip very well), and i get chirps and more into 2nd, back kicks out pretty hard if the car isn't perfectly straight. My suspension isn't overly hard and it's standard ride height, so dunno why ur not frying tyres, dyno it i spose

[limpus]

You've got about 20 kilowatts more power than me (im using Dunlop SPMAXX's, a high performance tyre with a very soft tyre compound, that grip very well), and i get chirps and more into 2nd, back kicks out pretty hard if the car isn't perfectly straight. My suspension isn't overly hard and it's standard ride height, so dunno why ur not frying tyres, dyno it i spose

He was talking about frying the tyres rolling on to boost in 2nd...not while changing...with the power u have you won't be "frying" your tyres rolling onto boost...but u'll definitely chirp in 2nd...and possibly 3rd...

[Wheezy]

Get rid of the bloody wolf.....thats problem number one....

2. why do you want to fry tyres while rolling and booting it....is there any really good reason to waste tyre like that?

3. limpus...chipring 3rd's with 180rwkw rb20 = foot still on clutch and cant drive, me thinks

[123456]

ohh haha, last 3 ppl metioned chirping and such.. Mine doesn't lose traction rolling onto boost in 1st lol

Edited December 6, 2006 by 123456

[mad082]

i wish mine kept traction in first. anything over about 70% throttle in in first is useless, but i need new rear tyres.