Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking for some adjustable camber arms for my R32 and JJR has these ones +/-4 deg. and wondering if anyone here has had them installed, and what you think of them.

Do they really have the 4 deg adjustment? any major dramas with them?

Please write about own experiences if possible, avoid the " I've heard that a mate of a mate....."

Cheers

Ric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145921-jjr-upper-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yup i bought a set, installed them in the car, drove around the block and then jacked car up to double check tightness of everything and what do ya know... BOTH arms had cracked their welds.

demanded my money back and vowed never ever to buy another just jap product

which ones are we talking about? the dog-bone shaped ones?

If it is those ones I have a set in my car. as far as the adjustment goes I could only get a max of 2 degrees or thereabouts. this is because after they are screwed in a bit the two halves touch each other inside the turnbuckle. if you cut down those threaded sections you could get more adjustment.

they haven't failed me in any way, but after 1 trackday and about 150kms of driving they started squeaking like crazy. haven't been able to cure it yet.

Yes these are the ones, Front ones.

Are you serious Simon? thats not good at all, did you get any explanation from JJR as to why they could have cracked? installation or something?

How about some Noltec ones anyone tried this ones, how much adjustment can you get?

Cheers

Ric

ahh, mine are completely different to those ones which is why I asked. those are rears I believe. I was talking about some fronts.

i'm talking about these ones:

jjrupperadjarmsgtr.jpg

They have a very similar design to the ones i got from japan, except mine are symmetric. i.e. the threaded parts dont have 1 longer than the other. Seems to me like it would be more hassle to do this... 3 different parts instead of 2 different parts

Looking at the Noltec catalogue, adjustment is via the 2 parts of the arm sliding inside each other and then are locked with grub screws (think camber tops, that style of sliding and locking).

N52088.jpg

These designs are known for slipping when used for control arms. They also retail for $691.43 according to their site...

Have you thought about just getting camber adjustable bushes? These are under $200, last time I looked (a while ago) they were being redeveloped to stop the excessive wear of one of the bushes and they were also coming down in price. They have now come down to $187 (i think) so I assume they are now stiffer and last longer?

yes, i considered the noltel arms, but just couldn't see all those little cap screws holding the thing together.

the JJR ones I have a 'inspired' by the midori made upper arms. they are a good design. just need a little tweaking imo.

First off have a read of this thread;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=spherical

Keep in mind that almost all of the “retail” camber kits are designed to REMOVE the negative camber that occurs when Skylines are lowered. This is because the “road car market” is far larger than the “race car market” and they are looking at excessive inside tyre wear as the major problem that they need to overcome by adjusting the camber.

Keeping that in mind, the standard R32 style upper control arm is 190 mm long, centre of the outer bolt to the centre of the inner bolt. Using the off the shelf adjustable, offset, outer bush (Whiteline etc) reduces that to 184 mm. This gives around 2 to 2.5 degrees of negative camber on an R32 with a ride height around 355 mm centre of wheel to guard with around 6.5 degrees of caster on a 2wd and 5.0 degrees on a 4wd.

That is usually enough camber/caster, provided sufficient anti roll is used (larger stabiliser bars), for most circuits. High speed circuits with long sweeping radius curves (eg; Philip Island) need slightly more camber.

So we use the off the shelf adjustable, offset bush (Whiteline etc) in the inner of the upper control arm. That reduces the length to around 180 mm. This gives around 3.0 to 3.5 degrees of negative camber on an R32 with a ride height around 355 mm centre of wheel to guard with around 6.5 degrees of caster on a 2wd and 5.0 degrees on a 4wd.

This 180 mm length seems to have been the minimum that ALL of the R32 camber adjusters have been made to. All of the brands of upper control arms that I have measured (Noltec, Nismo, Ikeya etc) all stop at 180 mm or longer. So choosing one brand over another to get more negative camber is pretty much a waste of time.

:) Cheers :)

Hi,

Just got these installed on my car, as Beer Baron says u can only get max -2degree adjustment out of them.

When i was deciding between the noltec one and the jjr one it was a fairly easy choice.

You should have a read of SydneyKid's thread on upper arms, very informative read.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91064

Hope that helps.

Stan.

Woops, too slow in my reply.

Edited by SNG

Yeah they stay at -5 all the time. Pictures of my car sideways shows the outside tyre flat on the road so this is good.

Drift events in wa are months apart so ive been using standard arms for daily driving inbetween then come drift time I fit the JIC's (which takes me 45mins). It looks like garage-13.com are selling these arms from $175.

Willow.... Do garage-13 have a website? thats cheap as!

SK....was jsut having a look at the whiteline catalogue for these camber kits which is the part number im looking for? the only one they seem to have is only +/-0.5 deg. which seems extremely low adjustment, any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Ric

Yeah they stay at -5 all the time. Pictures of my car sideways shows the outside tyre flat on the road so this is good.

Drift events in wa are months apart so ive been using standard arms for daily driving inbetween then come drift time I fit the JIC's (which takes me 45mins).

What camber does it have with the standard arms fitted?

:wub: cheers :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for your insight, it being basically useless will impact my decision for sure. I thought it may help the engine breath better I guess. But then again, I have also been told that tuning an RB20DE is also not worth it. Exactly, we follow EU Regulations. There is a bit more leeway on older vehicles. My Porsche 924 came without a cat from factory and managed to pass, they still mentioned that I have quite high emissions on it though.
    • My apologies, I stand corrected. Thanks for registering to mention this! And thank you for actually reaching out to the council to clarify. This is the sensible thing to do and the opposite of what I was alluding you were doing. I may have seen too much outrage and hate being fueled on the internet and it has made me a somewhat cynical old man. Sometimes it is easy to forget that there are real people behind websites and accounts. In my defence, CarExpert and CarExplore do read quite similarly at a glance. I shall try and do better in the future. (Please stick around to get the latest scoops on dealing with old Nissan shitboxes )
    • Don't bother. The poor little RB20 doesn't make enough gas flow to challenge the flow capabilities of even the littlest cat, and you won't make any extra power, and all you'll do it soot up your rear bumper. Plus....is Malta not runing under Euro regs?
    • Hey Daniel, sorry to hear that and thanks for posting up for us at a really hard time I only knew SmoothLine through the forums, we never met as we are based in different states, but when he was most active on here he was quite a while back so not many of the current crowd might remember him. I am pretty sure he was active in the Queensland SQU club but that is defunct now too (times are changing and we are all getting older). Farewell SmoothLine!    
    • Turns out depending on whether the car was equipped with TCS or not there are different signals coming to the dash, meaning there are different speedo clusters.  Wired in a speedo calibrator box from aliexpress and now works fine. 
×
×
  • Create New...