Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

man - lots of little curries here these days (cept for basti - hes a lanky lankan)

from one lankan to another - your parents are going to hate it when you mod up your car. After my dad found out about the pod filter he said "you idiot" >_< - or something to that effect in tamil.

any mods you put on the car, you will never get the money back - thats for sure. But depending on what mod you wanna do - just search first on the forums, then have a look at the sponsers or traders when it comes to buying the stuff.

EG - for the exhaust, I went with batmbls products and added a trust pe2 catback - so not too loud, but better response from the car (set me back 1500). Will be getting the dyno results today.

Most people end up doing the exhaust and pod/intercooler first followed by the powerfc and boost I think - well thats what I would have done too. Exhaust will be around 800 - 1500 (depending on what you wanna do), pod (100-150), intercooler (400 - 700), powerfc (around 900), bleed valve (i have no idea).

Oh and check with insurance before u do the mods - just in case.

Edited by emsta2003

haha lol so true man.

ive thought about all this mod shit, i think im gonna keep it stock for a while, i mean i just got my ps, and a 33 gtst is illegal let alone a one with mods, so ill just keep myself on the down low lol

cheers

haha lol so true man.

ive thought about all this mod shit, i think im gonna keep it stock for a while, i mean i just got my ps, and a 33 gtst is illegal let alone a one with mods, so ill just keep myself on the down low lol

cheers

yes good idea. The "5" "0" just happen to love stopping anything with nice round brake lights at the back, and having a 'p' plate on is even more cop bait.

yeh definantly an exhaust and POD CAI setup. will give you a good 20rwkw increase no problems. keep it nice and legal.

Personally I think a bleed valve is a waste of time. Get a manual boost controller or a complete EBC. You can get a manual boost controller that shouldn't spike and hold boost well for around $30.

The JustJap FMIC are pretty good for $345. I got the same kit with a tube and fin instead of bar and plate core.

have you had any problems with the silicon joints popping off? I can't boost it more than 8psi without the blue joints popping off. kinda sucks and silicon isn't cheap :glare:

yeh definantly an exhaust and POD CAI setup. will give you a good 20rwkw increase no problems. keep it nice and legal.

have you had any problems with the silicon joints popping off? I can't boost it more than 8psi without the blue joints popping off. kinda sucks and silicon isn't cheap :glare:

It's sitting on my desk at home. You should get in touch with the JustJap guys they should help you out.

Is a pod really needed?? Will a good panel filter do the job just as good??

arguably something like a apexi panel filter will work more ‘efficiently’ and also suck in a lot less hot air compared to a open pod, but aftermarket panel filters (from my experience) don’t sound as good as a good pod (if you like that induction noise). What can I say, I’m a sucker for that. Excuse the pun.

The standard cold air box with a good element like a piper cross/K&N or similar is pretty decent.

As mentioned the Pod filter has more induction noise however if its contained in a good sealed airbox with a cold air feed tube the noise is no louder really. Perhaps a good sign if the cold air box is well made?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...