Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've read some of the other posts about this (there are quite a few) but still was wondering a few things. I went to the servo after work, when the car was idling I looked at the oil pressure. It started dropping from the middle (4) down to 2. I turned the car off, put in petrol, checked the oil (good), started the car, and it was back to normal. So I drove home, normal the whole way (only 2 minute drive) got to my driveway idled and it started dropping again 3, 2, 1. I stopped the car. started it again and it just sat on nothing, the warning light didn't come on, but I didn't let it idle for long, I've heard bad stories.

It looks like it's either the sender, the oil pump, or motor's gone (unlikely running well). I was wondering how do I test easily?

Does an oil pump die that quickly?

If it's the oil pump, can I change the pump, or do I have to rebuild motor? I was told that something wears in the motor, which breaks the pump so no point in just changing the pump?

I only have about 2K at the moment, so rebuilding the motor isn't really a good option for me. Maybe T/S for me though. C'mon Santa I need some forgies :( .

Edited by cactu5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146111-rb26-oil-pressure-dropped/
Share on other sites

Rig up another sensor and gauge to get an independant reading. Can get one of those sandwich plates to go on the oil filter adapter, borrow/buy a gauge and get a fresh reading. Good luck mate, hope its nothing too serious.

I might start it again, let it idle and see if the light comes on. It wasn't knocking or anything when I turned it off.

If there's no oil pressure, how long do you think I've got on idle before motor disintegrates?

Edited by cactu5

well if there is no oil pressure the engine should last around 30 secs or so at idle. at 7000rpm it may last 3 seconds or less.

you do realise that oil pressure is not constant? it goes up and down with revs. so the lower the revs, the lower the oil pressure, that is normal. so after sitting at idle for a bit it's not uncommon for the oil pressure to be between 1 and 2 bar. when driving it should be always over 4 bar and at 3000rpm it should be nearer 6bar.

i have found my standard gauge is fairly accurate, just a touch low, but it is very slow to react.

I started the car. The oil pressure is beautiful again. Maybe it's the gauge, I can't see an oil pump working fine, sieze without warning, then work fine again. I'll take it to the servo, do an oil pressure check, and maybe get one of those guages like V-spec suggested.

well if there is no oil pressure the engine should last around 30 secs or so at idle. at 7000rpm it may last 3 seconds or less.

you do realise that oil pressure is not constant? it goes up and down with revs. so the lower the revs, the lower the oil pressure, that is normal. so after sitting at idle for a bit it's not uncommon for the oil pressure to be between 1 and 2 bar. when driving it should be always over 4 bar and at 3000rpm it should be nearer 6bar.

i have found my standard gauge is fairly accurate, just a touch low, but it is very slow to react.

I know that oil pressure gets low when idling, but it went down to zero oil pressure.

When you say the engine should last thirty seconds at idle, do you mean thirty seconds until there is a knock, or thirty seconds until I destroy it?

ok another point. you also need to remember that when cold the pressure will be much higher than when at operating temp. so when you start the car in the morning when it's cold it will probably be 6 or 8 bar at idle. at operating temp it should be 1-2bar.

if your oil pump truly did fail, and you have no oil pressure at idle you'd have 30 seconds before trouble. a bearing would start to wear in about 5 second I'd guess. even at idle your car turns over 500times in 30 seconds....

I started the car. The oil pressure is beautiful again. Maybe it's the gauge, I can't see an oil pump working fine, sieze without warning, then work fine again. I'll take it to the servo, do an oil pressure check, and maybe get one of those guages like V-spec suggested.

The most probable answer is that the oil pressure sender unit has failed or is suffering from an intermittent failure. Mine used to randomly change pressure & despite how ever many times you tell yourself not to worry you end up getting paranoid about it. So I fitted a new unit & the problem went away. If you are going to get it checked then it is well worth pricing up a new sender unit as they aren't massively expensive. Change it out when you next change the oil.

The oil pump is directly geared/coupled to the crank so if it seizes the engine won't go round....

The oil pump is directly geared/coupled to the crank so if it seizes the engine won't go round....

yeah but there plenty of other ways for it to fail!! :D backing plate coming loose is a common one and engine will still run (till it dies). shattered pump gear (sometimes engine will still run till it destroys itself). those are probably the most common type of oil pump failure on RB26s.

yeah but there plenty of other ways for it to fail!! :D backing plate coming loose is a common one and engine will still run (till it dies). shattered pump gear (sometimes engine will still run till it destroys itself). those are probably the most common type of oil pump failure on RB26s.

Just as there are 50 ways to leave your lover, there are many ways to kill an oil pump. I was just trying to pull him up on the seizing thing, is all.

The most probable answer is that the oil pressure sender unit has failed or is suffering from an intermittent failure. Mine used to randomly change pressure & despite how ever many times you tell yourself not to worry you end up getting paranoid about it. So I fitted a new unit & the problem went away. If you are going to get it checked then it is well worth pricing up a new sender unit as they aren't massively expensive. Change it out when you next change the oil.

The oil pump is directly geared/coupled to the crank so if it seizes the engine won't go round....

:P So true, it doesn't matter how many times you tell yourself.

Thanks, it is starting to sound like it is the sensor. I started the car this morning, oil pressure was great, took it down the road to mechanic. While I was cruising along the oil pressure dropped from 4 to 1.5, I freaked a bit, but it stayed there and by the time I got to the mechanic the gauge was just going all over the place. He said he'd do an oil pressure check when I take it in for a water pump issue. He seems to think it may be the sender too.

He said if the oil pressure was too low I should hear some kind of rattle, and I can't and haven't heard it. Still I wont be driving it around until this is resolved.

I'll definately price up a sender unit, thanks.

might not be the sender.

I drove the car up the road last night. Oil pressure was fine at that time. parked the car. Got in it again this morning, went to start it and heard the loudest grinding metal sound ever. Stopped the car immediately. WTF? Anyway, I don't know if it was the water pump throwing a bearing, because that was on its way out, or if it was the motor dying. Either way it's not going any where. FARK :P

I read on the forum about the guy who heard a grinding sound with his RB25 and it looks like his motor completely beyond repair. It seems strange that mine ran fine when I turned it off last night? I don't know what's going on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...