Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys!

I think i'm having my first ever problem since getting my car.

Yesterday afternoon on the way to work it stalled about 5 times for no apparent reason when stopping at traffic lights.

First time i was coming to a complete stop with 2nd gear engaged and the revs dropped and nearly stalled, this is with the clutch fully pressed.

Then the next times i gently shifted down to 1st to slow down and it stalled numerous times. I could be wrong but i think when i had the clutch pressed all the way maybe it wasn't un-engaging all the way.... again, i may be wrong...

This all happened on the first 15km of my trip to work, the next 20km's after this nothing occurred. Then on the way home this morning '35' km's i tried to make it happen again to no avail.

At first i thought the clutch 'heavy duty' needed adjustment, but there was no judder when stalling. (Not the BOV cause i put the stock one back on). I then started thinking diff, fuel pump and other more expensive things :) .

I don't have time for awhile to visit a mechanic, so i guess your advice in the meantime will help nonetheless.

Also, when on full boost the car is running fine, same as idle.

Thanks for your help i know someone will know something.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14623-unexplained-stalling/
Share on other sites

It's a common problem which has many theories. From bov to fuel pressure to idle speed or mixture. Could be that they can all do it and you just have to find out which one it is.

Mine does it if I tap the accelerator up to about 3000rpm or more and then let it immediately go back down to idle. I changed my driving habits so that I slowly release the accelerator back down to idle, or if I've come off the gas harshly, I leave the gears engaged for a few seconds until it's past the stalling stage.

Now it only happens if I go to take off in heavy traffic but then realise that it was only a short move required and I quickly come off the accelerator again by reflex.

Guest nismo33

hi all , my first post in ere so ere we go..... first of all ive had similar problems in the past and most of em all came down to air leaks from loose clamps on intercooler piping etc , just go round and check clamps for tightness and also the hoses etc for cracks/splits and make sure theyre fitted correctly. now after saying that ive still got a "surging/stalling" problem @ the moment myself, its only happened after i had an oil catch-can fitted, i havent had a look yet, but im prayin theres a loose hose or sumthin there :(

hope this helps

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

LOL you guys crack me up.

I'm getting a new AFM so I'll see how that goes.

Mine happens if I give it a heap (say 5,000rpm+) and then suddenly come off the power and the thing dips to 500rpm and then dies.

It is apparently the AFM wire being cooled suddenly by air 'backwash'.

Will the z32 cure it? Stay tuned...

T.

I found the problem its seems i need the clutch adjusted, it only happens now and then but its pissing me off. I can see the rev's drop to about 100, then go back to 1000 without stalling. When its happening in 1st gear its hard to put it into neutral, hence the reason its the clutch, only happens for 1.000000123 secs!

Mo Money, Mo Billz

mine does it it to and i have a feeling it could be related to the timing belt because i can now hear like a click when i get on the gass from behingd that cover and ever since that click ot has the idle problem it's going for it's 100 000 km service this week so i'll see if this fixes it.

i dont agree with the EIDS isnt that a bit of a band aid solution

My car has this problem as well, Here are my ideas on the subject..

I have noticed that my stalls only occur when I have my headlights and other electrical devices on or when I have little petrol in the tank. It rarely happens during the day.

I then noticed that the battery in my car is rated at 280 CCA, which is miles to small for a Skyline.

What I think happens is when you have your lights on and stereo going and come off the gas at 3000rpm. As the Revs drops so does the current coming out of the alternator, when you go below 850-1000 rpm your alternator can't supply enough current for the whole car. Then fuel pump doesn't get enought current and then you stall.

I have also noticed that the car doesn't stall when I have a full tank of petrol. This is because of the fuel level in the tank, the more fuel the more downward pressure (due to the effect of gravity on the liquid) on the pump (or for the engineers in the audience NPSH). As the level drops this pressure reduces and makes it hard for the pump to work effectively. This combined with low current from the battery and a clogged fuel filter will make a car stall.

I'm going to replace the battery with a 520 CCA model some time this week and replace the fuel filter thie weekend. Should sort it out. (Sorry about the long post peoples)

I thought i was the only one with this stupid problem...I've been trying to just get into neutral and releasing the clutch pedal as often as i can even after dropping a gear to slow down...it seems to allow the rpm's to jump back up to 650-700 when i feel a stall coming on. The best thing is to just have it looked at, cos i doubt it's doing the starter motor any favors.

Guest downward-spiral

No, you're definitely not the only one. Have had a lot of people tell me it's the AFM, but the battery makes sense. Was just looking at it yesterday, the battery is tiny. Don't know if it gets replaced in the compliancing process, but it's not the one that's meant to be there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...