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Cracked Radiator End Tank

Fixxxer

By Fixxxer,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Fixxxer Community Regular

Fixxxer

Posted
Posted

Ok anyways, just had my car serviced a week or two ago. New coolant and new water pump. Driving home yesterday I noticed some white smoke drift past from near the front of the car while stopped for a moment, because I was close to the car infront, I just passed it off as some random smoke from the car infront or from beside me (3lane each way road).

Thought I should keep an eye on the temp and oil pressure gauges just incase. Didn't see anything else until about a minute or two later when I saw white smoke coming from the bonnet, took it straight out of gear (it stalled then) and pulled over. I was watching temp gauge regularly (every 20 sec or so) before that and didn't notice a change in needle position prior to this. Check radiator, zero coolant in the radiator. Got a tow. Problem found this morning was a crack in the plastic radiator end tank, apparently drained all coolant out, no coolant circulating may be why the temp needle didn't seem to change. Didn't notice any white smoke out back of car while driving (although I don't look out the back much, and have dark 20% tint).

Is the random cracking of plastic end tanks common in R32's, skylines?

What are my options, 2nd hand radiator (probably run into same problem), new radiator $$$$??? Car is being tested tomorrow morning to see if internal damage is a result of the overheating.... poor compression, blown head gasket, etc.... I'd hate to lose an engine on something this stupid. :D:D

ANyways, gimme your feedback...

Fixxxer

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146235-cracked-radiator-end-tank/
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Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

new tank should be fairly cheap. they will flush and clean the core too while the tank is off. top tanks cracking is pretty common on lots of cars. not just 32s.

the factory temp gauge is pretty useless. it stays dead in the middle from about 65 degrees until about 110 degrees so as not to alarm the driver. it's an idiot gauge.

i would say your engine 'should' be ok. what was the oil temp like?

Wheezy Mentor

Wheezy

Posted
Posted (edited)
ive seen full alloy radiators at autobarn for like $299. i had the top tank on my radiator replaced for $260... i hope things work out for u.

Ron, I wouldnt touch them with 20 foot clown pole...and you know what my job is....

take it to a radiator specialst, and get a new tank and a good clean of the rad... Fact is the standard R32 radiator is pretty good for what it is, no need to put in an aliminium one unless your chasing some serious power

Edited by Wheezy
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just buy a second hand one, cheaper IMO.

Get it flushed from a radiator place and away you go :D

And Richard - totally agree. The gauge is absolutely pointless.

Mine behaves just as you said and its an RB25 sensor.

Thankgod for the PFC Handcontroller :)

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted
I decided to go with a replaced top end tank, not the best solution, but is relatively cheap and I get the car back on the road quick smart, which is my main aim.

Fixxxer

exactly wat i did mate. nice n easy

HRthirtyone Rising Star

HRthirtyone

Posted
Posted

in the HR31 skylines, they have a single core radiator.

in the australian delivered they have double core radiator the same size.

all the imports like r32s silvias etc have pissy little radiators.

My point being they were not intended for Australian conditions. They have to be in tip top shape to handle 40+ days, i.e. good working pump, no leaks, working thermostat. That said, it should be common practise for any car of age.

i went to the Just Jap Cooling Pro radiator, and noticed a 4-8 degree drop on an average drive, today was 40 degrees and the temp was sitting on 80degrees the whole 30min drive home from work. that rox the sox of any other car ive owned, turbo & non turbo

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Is the random cracking of plastic end tanks common in R32's, skylines?

What are my options, 2nd hand radiator (probably run into same problem), new radiator $$$$??? Car is being tested tomorrow morning to see if internal damage is a result of the overheating.... poor compression, blown head gasket, etc.... I'd hate to lose an engine on something this stupid. :stupid::)

ANyways, gimme your feedback...

Fixxxer

Mine did this some years ago.. It had some where around 100,000km's on the clock at the time. Its now done 225,000km's.

The same as you.. I did a recent service that replaced all major hoses, waterpump, cam belt etc. Saw what looked like smoke. Pulled over but I managed to track it down to the snout had simply gone brittle and crumbled under the new hose clamp. :)

I wouldn't be too concerned about internal damage from overheating, these rb20's are damn tough.

When I first got mine ~5years ago it had a dodgy guage temp sender that had the temp sitting on 1/4 the majority of the time and in hot weather 1/2. It ran 2 x 12" thermo's. During hot weather the car would feel quite sluggish and spew its coolant out. After replacing the temp sender it turned out the car in hot weather was driving around ON THE H!!! It was like this for a whole summer. To this day I am still amazed the motor was fine.

But yes.. back to the radiator tank... My top tank was the buggered. Natrad replaced the top tank for $90 inc labour + coolant + rodding the radiator.

So head down the local radiator workshop, they should know what top tank to use. It does look slightly different, most likely of an R31 or something, but it works, fits and looks tidy so thats all that matters.

----

The R32's run a thicker radiator than the Silvia's etc.. I believe the rads are identical to the GTR.

Measuring the side of the core mine measures up at 50mm.

It copes fine with hot weather, with the a/c off it will peak at around 87 in traffic or up a long hill, general cruising it sits on the usual 84degree's that it sits on even on those 4degree winter mornings.

With the A/C on it will peak 95 generally or 100degree's if really stuck in traffic on a 40degree day. But it doesn't go much over that and once moving a little the engine temps come down really quick to under 90.

BUT.. You can't beat the justjap rad.. Simply awesome price/performance.

Fixxxer Community Regular

Fixxxer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys, just an update. As said before I had the end (top) tank replaced. The engine tested fine, did a CO2 test and it came back perfect, so no engine damage *phew*.

I think I have been driving around for a long time (winter and last summer) with very little water (due to a stuffed water pump leaking profusely through the weep hole). The temp needle never went over half way, even in hot weather and stop/start driving into the city every morning/afternoon. When the water pump was replaced it was noted there was very little water. I think the car has been continually running hot pretty much since I got the car, and why I think the end tank finally gave out after continually running hot.

I will check the radiator fluid more regulalry from now on, because I can't trust the temp needle at all.

Fixxxer

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted
After replacing the temp sender it turned out the car in hot weather was driving around ON THE H!!! It was like this for a whole summer.

Good JEsUs! thats truly insane, makes me feel better about a short overheating stint my RB saw once

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