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Pardon my ignorance. But what specific reason does it matter what side the turbo is on in relation to RH drive or LH drive?

Cooking the brake master cylinder. You get a lot of heat up there.

JZ engines can make 10'000 horsepower on stock everything, even turbos and fuel pump, I don't know if anyone had mentioned this.

They are so much better ZOOM said so,

The are so much better Martin Donnon said so,

They are so much better, the Yanks think so.

.......................

haha i must admit there was a definite push towards jz's for awhile there after that article...

i put them on par with each other.

haha i must admit there was a definite push towards jz's for awhile there after that article...

i put them on par with each other.

Lol agreed definitely,

You really have to compare apples with apples,

comparing a 2.5 litre and a 3 litre engine in the case of the 2J is stupid (increased stresses due to lower displacement etc)

I think one of the biggest problems is people have these toyota engines and in alot of cases they are transplanted out of much newer cars and they are comparing them with 89 - 91 vintage RB's (especially the 26)

And we all know the story with the nose of the crank etc.

However you don't seem to hear about too many 34 vintage RB's with these apocalyptic "oiling issues"

I seriously cringe everytime i hear someone mention oiling problem, harmonics, oil pump, extended sump because I just know the how the conversation is going to go.

Anywho it's all good, gotta go "rebuild" my 26

Righto, so here are my 2c. Please note I actually turfed my perfectly healthy RB25 for a 1JZ

... because you felt like doing something redundant

I would like to clarify something about the 10 second passes issue noted above. Factory internal of each motor have acheived 10s, yes. Substantially factory 1JZ's have seen 10s is more so what people were trying to say. The debate I see on toyota forums regularly is how stock were your stock turbos when you ran the 10. Whether or not manifolds have been ported or if turbos themselves are steel wheeled or high flowed.

Very true Toyota give better factory support systems for their motors. However the 10second stuff, there aren't that many people who have even given the RB25 the opportunity to run 10s - Australia is probably one of the bigger modifiers of RB25s and it seems 80% of you put undersized turbos on them, its only been recently people seem to have started being more sensible with them imho. Of course if people put 400hp turbos on RB25s and 700hp on 1JZs the 1JZs are going to go quicker!

So, here were my options.. Persevere with my RB25 3037 setup (90% complete) and aim for 290rwkw~ or part out and for near equivalent cost setup the JZ in my car with a turn key 250rwkw~. Dollar for dollar I am down 40rwkw, quite a lot and not cheap to get back. Yet, in theory I feel the car will be faster as an all rounder anyway, and reliability will be like a factory car in comparison to the blood stained love story that would become of my RB @ that power.

You feel somehow like 40kw down with only slightly less lag would be faster overall? You should have just gone a smaller turbo on the RB25 as you had already started down that path - imho.

I am also confident that the motor will outlive my itch for power (condition dependent), whereas my RB was feeling the stress of the 3037 before it even hit full tune.

It sounds like you had already done something silly to your motor somehow. I've done 90,000km running 1bar+ on a GT3076R (which I put on at around 100,000km) and my motor is still going strong despite all sorts of weird situations its been through. One of my friends has a 2JZGE Supra and his motor is more tired than more ffs.

Car publications (particularly the far selling Oz ones) have a lot to answer for in terms of providing ill informed or biased opinions based on pub talk or whatever and having crowds of sheep treat it like scripture. I love the HPI issue where they compare the VR38 and the RB26 and they site long rods as a major disadvantage, then rattle off a bunch of completely back to front reasons that long rods are bad. Excellent :domokun:

Top Secret put an RB in a Supra didn't they? lol. Probably just to pull a bit of tongue and cheek. Honestly, does anyone know if JZ's come with forged internals from stock? or so I have read...

JZ engines all have forged pistons from factory.... they are right next to the solid platinum exhaust manifold and the piles of US dollars that toyota use for sound deadener

It says down below "With forged internals and cast iron block".

So. The real comparison regarding engine design as to which is the best design... would be an RB with forged internals, against the 2JZ - or a JZ without forged internals against the RB.

Rb internals do well considering it isn't made with the extra forging process. So says me from my limited knowledge :)

Unless of course the link is wrong and others.

Edited by senilykSkylines

... because you felt like doing something redundant

No. Because I did not feel like rebuilding a redundant motor when it failed to cop the abuse I was destined to give it :rolleyes:

Very true Toyota give better factory support systems for their motors. However the 10second stuff, there aren't that many people who have even given the RB25 the opportunity to run 10s - Australia is probably one of the bigger modifiers of RB25s and it seems 80% of you put undersized turbos on them, its only been recently people seem to have started being more sensible with them imho. Of course if people put 400hp turbos on RB25s and 700hp on 1JZs the 1JZs are going to go quicker!

Let me clarify, there are well documented records of people running 10s with the factory CT12A turbos. Lets say that again.. .30AR front housing.. .45AR rear housing.. 54mm OD compressors.. 10 seconds..

You feel somehow like 40kw down with only slightly less lag would be faster overall? You should have just gone a smaller turbo on the RB25 as you had already started down that path - imho.

At the time, my reasoning was if and when I opt for more. I still itch to experience 400rwkw despite my senses urging me NO. That being said, I would have rathered use the JZ and swap the bottom end for a 2JZ-GE item. Reliability wouldnt have been a problem and it would have pissed it in on a T04Z.

It sounds like you had already done something silly to your motor somehow. I've done 90,000km running 1bar+ on a GT3076R (which I put on at around 100,000km) and my motor is still going strong despite all sorts of weird situations its been through. One of my friends has a 2JZGE Supra and his motor is more tired than more ffs.

Condition cannot speak for the motor alone. When I purchased my last SR20DET, I had the option of 3 to pick from. 2 with lower KMs than the third. The third seemed to be in reasonable condition whereas the other two had pitting on the cam lobes. I wonder what the bores would have looked like... Now lets take one thing extra to note... My 130xxxKM half cut ended up also being in poorer condition than my 220xxxKM DE that I swapped it for.

Its all well and good that your motor is fine, yet I was confident mine would pop. After all, not one is the same. Heres hoping my JZ is in satisfactory condition... Whatever the case, I made the decision that I would rather work with the JZ and run the R154 box than my RB. Should my JZ be a dud, a 2JZ bottom end will be sought for about $600 and the CT12As will hit the bin. Viva la EPIC WIN.

Bad Moderator :domokun: how dare you question the JZ !!!!

1 x 'JZ fan boy' over and out.

My old setup; basic rb25det with basic mods, stock turbo on 10psi 253rwhp

Mates setup; VVTi stock single turbo with same mods on 12psi = 235rwhp.

Both cars dynoed ages ago at a dyno day, on the same dyno, 20mins apart.

i did do it cheap in my opinion, compared to similar cars, i see guys spending 100k on a vl to run low tens on slicks when im doing it on radials with no trans brake.

i could build another car the same as i have now with a built 2j for 30 grand.

having buddies with RBs, and dollar for dollar i reckon the JZ's are easier and safer to extract power from.

i am pulling my stock engine out now and putting a built engine in in search for mid nines. i could have run a nine on this engine with out a problem given cooler weather.

just for those that dont know.

standard head, standard bottom end, standard plenum and TB, Garret T51R, 3.5 inh full exhaust, 1000cc injectors, microtech, 50 shot of gas, built toyota trans(no transbrake) standard cressida shell, pretty standard pedders suspension. the engine had 190,000 k's on it, i bought half cut with 94000 on it 5 years ago.

35 psi of boost on MT drag radials 255/50/16 and run a PB of 10.17 et at 137 mph.

to put that into perspective, 3440 pounds and that trap speed work out the power. and the great thing is the car has been running tens for a year and a half, i've been making over 450 horsepower at the tyres for over 2 years, the car gets street driven regularly and driven long distances and i havent had an issue.

in my opinion tyhe JZ's are a stronger engine, 35 psi on factory rods, over 30 psi for 1 year and adam can attest i race it alot.

shane :D

BTW ONLY 450hp on a T51R :laugh:

Were you thinking of longevity? haha

I heard from one of my engineering college whom said the material used in Toyota's engine components are denser which made them super strong. Probably related to the "Pan cake" ratio of the material when it was made. But I haven’t had this confirmed.

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