Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only turbo timer that I'd bother with is the Blitz Fully Automated or Dual Turbo timer. They are the only ones on the market that use boost sensing & running time to determine how long they have to time out for.

A friend of mine installed it in his 200SX & it was great, if you were taking it easy it would shut off within 10 seconds, but if you'd been thrashing the crap out of it, the time would shoot up and then start counting down again straight away while you were on the move. I could time out as high as nearly a couple minutes just from hard driving. Handy if you need to take off in a hurry.

Be warned though, they are illegal so make sure you hide it well but easily shut down too if the cops pull you over.

As far as working with an immobiliser is concerned it depends on your system. A good immobiliser will actually detect went the timer shuts the engine off & then fully immobilise the engine so it can't be started again. A bad set up will just bypass the immobiliser, making it easy for theives.

lol yer i remember an instance in my mates 180sx with a bad setup... his car would UNLOCK after like 2 minutes of the car being off from the turbo timer... so funny cause his car was like a f**ken theif magnet and he didnt notice it at first...

A friend of mine installed it in his 200SX & it was great, if you were taking it easy it would shut off within 10 seconds

If u were taking it easy there would be no need to have it running at all.

Frikking just "Zomg-looksie i gotz a wanksta car that switches off by itself!!111!11" :O

I did have a HKS automatic one, had a built in electronic boost gauge, ended up giving it away as i waas worried about getting defected for it, turns out with my new turbo i need one as my new turbo is only oil cooled which takes alot longer to cool down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
    • Pay diff/trans workshop to do this.   Nope. Z32 turbo ran R230 with 6 bolt GTR style axles. All other Z32 were R200. Basically same same as other R32 stuff. All were a viscous waste of space.
    • So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles.  You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)
×
×
  • Create New...