Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-29172-0-72021400-1308554356_thumb.jpg

Nice - pic would look even better with even just a little photoshopping on contrast / curves / saturation I reckon... I like how the post in the background says "Launch" :)

Yeah with a legend of a driver behind the wheel! :P

Haha looked like you had some fun there. Was a great battle with the Mazda. :thumbsup:

Nice!

Yes I went down the route of colour-coding the front splitter too. I'm happy I did. :thumbsup:

If you'd like a new C/F rear diffuser for a 1/3 of Nissan's price, "JDM Performance" aka Eugene has them (if still in stock).

And Bodyformaero aka Peter can supply the brackets and diff support too.

Terry, is that jdmperformance.com.au? My 34 was missing the rear diffuser when I bought it. A Jap spares place in Adelaide had a second hand one for $1200 but I missed out on it.... Keen to get one, searched the above site but couldn't see one advertised. (I assume the brackets are still there? It's a genuine V Spec)

Terry, is that jdmperformance.com.au? My 34 was missing the rear diffuser when I bought it. A Jap spares place in Adelaide had a second hand one for $1200 but I missed out on it.... Keen to get one, searched the above site but couldn't see one advertised. (I assume the brackets are still there? It's a genuine V Spec)

Hi Craig,

Since you have a genuine V-Spec, you won't require forward brackets. I wonder if the larger central rear bracket is missing though. If so, Peter at bodyformaero.com.au is able to fabricate it off his computer, because my last R34 GT-R was used as a model template. Peter will need to supply you with the aluminium differential mounting point that has 3 screw holes in the middle of the diffuser. He used my previous car for that too.

JDM Performance is the SAU user name of Eugene. He supplied me with the C/F rear diffuser for the GT-R. It's a direct copy that just about no-one can pick. And it's dry C/F.

Here we are... Ph 0421.141.538

Hope this helps...

Few of mine

i used to come to this tread... when i was looking for mine and for future plans

will be getting side skirts, Z-Tune bonnet, Pods soon along with some nice wheels

Engine got lot of work done already.. just need some GT-SS hair dryers and she is done

post-29613-0-47553800-1309855330_thumb.jpg

post-29613-0-68946500-1309855468_thumb.jpg

Looks nice mate, reminds me of the beast that SS8-Gohan used to own. That car was amazing, I drool over the pics of it. Is the current owner of it a member?

thanks mate :)I don't believe the current owner is a member, car is ACT

well, it's been a while since i've contributed to this thread, but i feel like now is an appropriate time after some recent 'additions' to the car :whistling:

03ff2603.jpg

92362b95.jpg

d270ed58.jpg

22b9e602.jpg

658c237a.jpg

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a way to adjust all of the pedals in an R32 GTS-T? they all sit even, but seem to be a little high for my liking.
    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
×
×
  • Create New...