Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My partner wouldnt do the sexy pose for me.. and someone had to do it.

Cut out my suggestive facial expression to keep this thread work safe.

car3t.jpg

Damn, I'm in love with your car. There's something just soo right about a clean, aesthetically stock BB gtr

Thanks Chris :)

They aren't bad rims Marko, not exactly the lightest wheels going around but they do look quite nice IMO

I'm thinking about changing to matte black Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15 all around...haven't seen too many 34 GTT's with RPF1's.

Thoughts or recommendations for other wheel upgrades?

how much effort do you think would be required to make an 18x9.5 +15 fit. im looking for new wheels but am wanting good traction as well as offset, so id be looking for something like a 255 on a 9.5 +20 but i fear it would take to much camber/guard work to get them to fit properly. anyone running a 255 on the front of a 34 gtt? otherwise id look at a decent 235 on a 9 +20, but does anyone know of anything comparable to say an xd9 in this offset? cheers

@Spark, nice yellow 34! Is that the 'DIY Lip' I see used all round, even on the skirts?? :P

Was wondering what they'd look like on the skirts if it really is so haha.

On another note, too many GTR's in this thread...

... making me jealous!

thanks for the kind words guys, makes me feel proud of my canary mobile :)

definitely is the El Cheapo DIY Lip kit all round lol turned out okay but im currently in the process of getting together a kit for it

so YAY or NAY for black RPF1's?

ahhbee: would take a bit and money to go into the front guards to make a 18x9.5 +15 fit with 255 tyres...a 235- sized tyre however, makes it a fair bit easier to fit.

I have a good mate with a GTT who is running 18x9.5 +15 all round with 235/40/18 tyres. Rolled guards, camber arms (mainly to go between track/street) and the slight stretched tyre make them fit quite nicely. I'd simply spend more on a nice, sticky 235 than a ok-ish 255 and be happy with that

This will answer your question :)

Matt black would really set it off!

I like these rims because they are very well priced and different to what you would expect to see on a skyline. If I had an r34, I'd run these wheels.

I was even thinking of buying a set for my 32 but they don't suit the car as much with the high detail and intricate design.

index-15.php

Edited by Marko R1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
×
×
  • Create New...