Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have a 1985 r30 hatch with power windows that has registration due on wednesday, and failed it's inspection today due to not having the controls for the rear power windows in the rear. I'm around the Sydney area and need to buy or (if someone is very kind) borrow the rear passenger and driver power window control switch things. The wiring is all there, just need to plug it in then take it back to get pinkslipped and registered.

Like I said, I'm in Sydney in West Ryde. If someone can help me out with some spares, shoot me an email at jcuniowski@optusnet.com.au or reply here.

Cheers.

Edited by HunterDevourer
Hi, I have a 1985 r30 hatch with power windows that has registration due on wednesday, and failed it's inspection today due to not having the controls for the rear power windows in the rear. I'm around the Sydney area and need to buy or (if someone is very kind) borrow the rear passenger and driver power window control switch things. The wiring is all there, just need to plug it in then take it back to get pinkslipped and registered.

Like I said, I'm in Sydney in West Ryde. If someone can help me out with some spares, shoot me an email at jcuniowski@optusnet.com.au or reply here.

Cheers.

your best bet is to just try a few wreckers

can you use some switches from another car (R31 Ti? Mazda 626...)and retro-fit them to suit?

if the look stock enough it might work, im sure they dont know exactly what r30 power widow switches look like

It must be different in NSW, but when I tried to get my R30 rego transferred here in Vic, the driver's window didn't work, and it's the only one that MUST work. So I simply swapped the motor from the rear RH door into the front RH door, and Robert became my uncle.

It passed a blueslip without them last year, but failed the pinkslip this time because of them. Different mechanics. I had no idea it was a fail item, and most people i've talked to don't think it should be. I've bought some bits from jaycar but couldn't get them working (2 switches with off position in middle, power on up and down).

I might be able to retro fit some switches from other cars like the r31 etc....but I now can't drive anywhere to get them.

I checked out drivers side power window door control as well, but it's no help as it has a different number of wires anyway.

  • 4 weeks later...

I had the same problem and ended up using a C31 Laurel rear switch for a while that worked fine, I'm guessing anything of that era would be more or less interchangeable. They're not the same cosmetic design, but the wiring is identical.

Those R30 rear switches are a downright pain, the internals always fall apart and then you're stuck with the whole assembly in several pieces. Must be something to do with the way they're vertically mounted on the doorcards, people push on them too hard and over the years they just get more and more worn out until they finally break. In fact I'd probably say that the C31 switches (which were designed for horizontal mounting) are far more robust than the R30 ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
    • Welp, you've got a long list of experiences right there. I'd say you're on the right path.
    • That's correct, suits my requirements a bit better. Sure there are also numpties there, however it's generally a different vibe and more my kind of vibe.
×
×
  • Create New...