Need Advice On What To Do With Audio System

[The White Knight]

Hey everyone,

I am after some advice on what i should do with my audio system in my R33 S2. currently i know little about whats in it, i'm pretty sure that it is stock speakers, and i don't even know what size they are. I really want to hang onto my stock head unit, as it takes up a pretty big space and i don't want any gaps in it if i were to change head units.

I am mainly looking at changing the speakers due to poor sound and bad vibration when the bass is up. i practically have to have the bass off completely to listen to the thing. now i don't want to spend heaps on it, and i don't need it to be the best audio system in the world, i just want it to sound good and not rattle and vibrate when the music's up.

any suggestions would be much appreciated.

thanks guys

[frx026]

Hey everyone,

I am after some advice on what i should do with my audio system in my R33 S2. currently i know little about whats in it, i'm pretty sure that it is stock speakers, and i don't even know what size they are. I really want to hang onto my stock head unit, as it takes up a pretty big space and i don't want any gaps in it if i were to change head units.

I am mainly looking at changing the speakers due to poor sound and bad vibration when the bass is up. i practically have to have the bass off completely to listen to the thing. now i don't want to spend heaps on it, and i don't need it to be the best audio system in the world, i just want it to sound good and not rattle and vibrate when the music's up.

any suggestions would be much appreciated.

thanks guys

My 2c.

Firstly ditch the factory head unit. Low quality output and amplification is not helping your cause. An aftermarket headunit would sound a lot better and give you preouts for amplifiers, plus if you get the right installer they should go in with no gaps.

2nd - Get a 4 channel amp, front splits, rear 2 ways, sound deaden the front doors and rear shelf, this will improove bass response, possibly have a look at my favourite product right now, Fusion, 4 channel - ppam8004. front splits ppcm65, rear two ways ppfr652

3rd - if steps 1 and 2 arent floating your boat yet, add a sub and amp pack, a single 12 with a good mono block will do the trick, it will also mean that you do not have to try to make your 6" speakers produce bass and can highpass them ( take the bass away) effectively meaning you can run the speaker harder, get more volume and with the sub not loose bass. Try the Fusion pp-112pk

Hope that helps

[Basti]

in the case wen u want to run a sub and amp too what do you hook the monoblock up to? the 4 channel or the hu?

from what i gather it goes like this:

is what i have in black correct? or is it red or blue?

p.s that pic is an extremely accurate diagram of my knowledge of car audio.

p.p.s what is the diff b/n the two amps?

Edited December 15, 2006 by Basti

[Eug]

Basti, the black arrows are the correct one. also need to include battery/power source and you'd be sweet.

a monoblock is a term for a "single channel amp"

the core difference between a 4 channel and a monoblock (aka single channel) is effectively how many channels/speakers they can amplify.

4 channel = 4 speakers

monoblock = 1 speaker (sub)

then you have bridging, where you short two of the channels together to make one channel (so a 4 channel into a 3 channel). when you bridge two channels together this bridge will have a higher power output (1+1 rule sort of applies) normally around double the original - give or take. bridging is normally so you can make more power to run a sub off the bridged channels.

not all amps can be bridged (most 4 channels can nowadays), and it is a cheaper alternative to PJ's step 3. on a mates car i did a similar setup and instead of buying a monoblock we bridged the 4 channel for the sub and ran the rear speakers off the headunit for fill.