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Auto's are better for drag racing! If you want to get abit more out of the std auto it would be advisable to get the std convertor loosened up abit. Geoff @ the convertor shop can do this for about $250-$300. 2 mates of mine got there TT300zx's done & it pushes the stall speed to about 3000rpm, which will help get you off the line better, but it may spin more unless you have decent tyres.The mods i would do are : HKS pod filter, full 3" exhaust including dump pipe, 13psi boost, advanced timing,decent fuel & octane booster should get you a low 13 with some practice. If it was me for the dump pipe i would be getting a HPC coated twin dump setup from Custom Exhaust specialists. You can check them out @ www.cesracing.com.au

The SubZero modded TRY09's ran 13.4 @ willowbank with similar mods but std convertor. It would be advisable to make sure the ducting to the std intercooler is good as well, maybe make some better ducting up so that the air has to go thru it & not around it, also make sure the air can get out @ the back of the cooler as well!

I'm sure that try09's was using the std ecu for the 13.4 run.

20deg base timing, 14psi, avgas which i wouldn't use as would kill the cat, filter & 3" exhaust. only thing mates with TT300ZX's has noticed is when the convertor locks up sometimes it locks & unlocks but its at like 100-105km? not really a drama just something he noticed when cruising on the highway. no problems when flat out on the strip etc!

I got my r33 as a auto.

Mods are.

HKS Suppa dragger exaust from dump pipe back

Supra front mount intercooler

timing advanced

K&N air filter & M-spec front bad with cold air induction to filter sectioned off in engine bay

I could put the car on SNOW (the auto button there is) then stall it up without wheel spin because its in second.. could get it to about 6psi of boost on the line then press power and take off at the same time kickback to first and off you go... take it easy though because you will wheel spin off the mark and make your times really slow.

I have a apexi speed meter and the BEST i got with the standard turbo was 13.54 second quarter and 5.75 0- 100

I blew the auto (obvous reasons as they can only handle 170rwkw i wreckon i had a bit more) and put in a 5 speed and im very happy with the speed difference.

look at the thread 0-100 on here and its explained more there.

u probably blew the auto cause u were using the snow button for the wrong reason ... i'm sure an auto can handle that much power but u can't go doing things like that!!! :) there are people with drag cars with autos, put in a high stall i think unless u want to change transmissions ;)

Guest RedLineGTR

They are not that weak, not sure of exact power it can handle but it way above that, maybe you friend’s auto Trans was not in that that good condition, or had some problems, not saying your wrong. But on some issues I recall them stating much higher than that, I cant say a figure as I am not sure and don’t want to lie. Cheers Rob.

Guest RedLineGTR

yes it would be, make sure you get you trans oil serviced properly, and with something good like redline oil, the high temp ATF fluid why would you use the normal stuff anyways the high temp stuff is at the same price and works great at high temps. Also i personally want to upgrade my oil cooler in the future.

Guest RedLineGTR

for draging 1/4 times, you can get the stall converter chnaged to 3000rpm, so it gives you full boost as soon as you hit the throttle, the stock stall converter is at botu 1200-1500rpm something like that, But getting it to 3000rpm, watch your fuel fly out the window.

question: when going WOT with an auto, is it best to keep your foot held to the floor and let the car change gears after going to 7300rpm, or would times be better easing your foot off so that it changes at about 6500rpm in the ideal range? this would induce a loss of boost, but the power seems to "trail off" if you just plant your foot and hold on.

anyone drive an auto and know how best to approach it?

My PB is 14.35 @ 100MPH, Full street trim and a full tank.

R33 GTSt 93 Auto

3" turbo back zorst, 10psi and K&N Pod.

I have had lots of runs down the 1/4

I have found wheels spin on stalling it up starts at around 2500 rpm with just using the foot brake.

If you use the had brake as well, and I mean hard and can get it to hold to around 3000 rpm, this is ideal and you will get a little wheel spin, also at this load the turbo is already on boost.

Launching with or without wheel spin seems to effect 1/4 times sometimes for the best and sometimes for the worst.

What ever you do. Don't do a burnout (unless you are running slicks) as you will get to much wheels spin of the mark and this can add a second to your time.

I am lucky that mine changes gears right on rev limit 7800, I will be trying to see if backing of to let it drop a little early into second then third will help but I do not believe it will make any difference as boost feels strongest in the last 1000rpm's before red line.

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