Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am building a cold air box in my 32gtst and was considering the option of a bonnet vent instead of feeding air through the front bar, would this mean i would have problems in rain ? was thinking out putting an R34 GTR V spec II vent on

gunna photoshop some pics to see how it looks but cant find any decent pics of the real thing :ninja:

anyways yeh, would water gt on my pod, and this would be bad right ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147027-bonnet-vents/
Share on other sites

Rain is gonna get in what ever you do if driving in bad weather.

I'd go front bar vent...

1. Build a rain trap in the induction pipe.

Straight pipe tee'd or Y'd off to the air box,

dead end the straight bit of pipe about 6 inches awat from the T or Y

Water is heavier so wil carry straight on the easiest path.....i(e) the dead end.

It will hit the dead end,so put a small hiole in the dead end at the bottom edge to drain water away, via a drain pipe/ tube or just leave the hole to draining away to outside the body obviously

job done....

...some water bourne air will still carry on in to the airbox, cant be helped...bit like cheap water injection...LOL

2 or just plug the air inlet pipe in bad weather, and take the lid off your air box.....your not going to be road racing in really bad weather anyway.

Edited by Allkiller
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147027-bonnet-vents/#findComment-2745079
Share on other sites

The Hood Vent looks very cool

But it is in turbulent air...as it hits the grill and lights air curls over the front and is not ram air style as the Front Bar would be,

The hood vent would need to be further back to avoid the turbulence IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147027-bonnet-vents/#findComment-2745172
Share on other sites

it may not get as much as a ram air fed system.

it still gets alot of airflow through that vent.. the airbox will seal against the bonnet and a custom pipe is going to be made that feeds air straight to my turbo's. as i dont need my AFM's anymore.. it is trial and error at the moment but i think it will be sufficiant.. gives quite an induction noise thats for sure...

*edit* yes water gets in if it rains...

Edited by Noy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147027-bonnet-vents/#findComment-2745261
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...