$10,000 What Would U Do?

[Sambo33gtst]

Don't listen to them arggggh!!

Got 90,xxx+ km's on it? Rebuild it. Simple.

If i see another person spend 10 grand+ on bolt ons im gonna scream. It's just dumb...ull high flow ur turbo, run higher boost, throw an fmic on it, with a decent new exhaust, new ECU and then after u run 20psi thru stock internals u'll wonder why 10,xxx km's later why your bottom end is f**ked.

Be smart. Make yourself a decent building block. Forge ur bottom end, make it strong.

$4k on forged rebuild with new metal head gasket, replace everyting. New bearings, machine ur cranks etc etc.

$900 on PFC (if u can find one)

$700 on a decent FMIC kit. Dont but hybrid generic shit.

$900-$1500 on a decent exhaust.

Once you have done this u can buy a much bigger turbo and gaining power will be easy.

Bolt on, and ull regret it =)

[R31Nismoid]

Have a read of this, it'll get you started.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218

Remember

Turbo + dump - 2300

ECU/tuned - 1800

Tyres - 1500

Diff - 1000

Suspension - around 1500?

I/C - 600

Clutch - 1000

Labour for it all - 2000-2500

Your off and running @ $12,000... so the building of a motor (another 7k) is out of the question.

In the above there is also stuff that i probably have not included so costs could be higher yet

[Sambo33gtst]

And dont buy another car, especially after u know the history of what you have.

Starting again sucks.

Edited December 13, 2006 by Sambo33gtst

[R31Nismoid]

4k for a forged rebuild? ok

[Sambo33gtst]

so the building of a motor (another 7k) is out of the question.

In the above there is also stuff that i probably have not included so costs could be higher yet

If your being slugged 7k to build a motor ur taking it to the wrong place.

[Sambo33gtst]

4k for a forged rebuild? ok

Wanna see receipts?

[K_E_V_I_N]

ok, i have the exhaust and intake covered.

* Get front mount

* Boost control and boost increase

* ECU

* New turbo ( GT30R or GT35R maybe)

* up-grade fuel pump

* Up-grade AFM

* Metal Head gasket

* Maybe cam/cam gears

[Sambo33gtst]

Why spend the cash on a decent turbo when u'll only be able to run it @ 16psi max?

[R31Nismoid]

Motor in/out - 1000

Pistons - 1400

Rods - 400 (GTR)

Crank/or machined crank with collar - 800

Upto 3600 before the block is even touched, head gaskets, bearings, new oil pump, etc etc. Mates rates are not counted here im afraid

Either way. IMO, totally not worth building the motor if there is nothing wrong with it.

So many people have made 250rwkw on stock motors and most are still alive.

[Cubes]

Tuning is the key to longevity.

Drop the comp via a headgasket and providing the tune is safe there is no reason for it to pop.

If the motor simply gets tired and has a lot of blowby then yes its lived a good life. If it breaks a piston, look at the tuner or yourself for doing something silly with it. Its as simple as that. Its not a perfect world so its up to yourself to ensure the tune is suitable for the conditions. Have it run up on the dyno on a hot and icy cold day.

Without labour (motor in and out) mine essentially cost 3.8k just for the bottom end bits inc. gaskets, forged pistons & std rods.

Rebuild the head, thats another 500 + VRS kit $280 + labour of the motor in and out and it will be up close to 6k if not slightly over by the time you throw fluids in to the motor/gearbox etc.

And thats not including the added expense of GTR Rods and crank collar.

R31Nismoid.. 7k is on the conservative side.

[Sambo33gtst]

Yeh exactly.

It also depends on what he wants to do with the engine. He may not have to change his cranks. Plus labour varies from state to state and region to region dependant on who you use. So for what i got for 4k, in most places would cost 5-6k.

But im a big fan of rebuilding 25s when they near 100,xxx....If u want decent power, make the whole engine fresh, not just the head.

But your right Nismoid, if it aint broke, why fix it? But id still be ripping off the head and looking for those signs that lead towards a future rebuild

Edited December 13, 2006 by Sambo33gtst

[R33 Eddy]

i will also be doing this to my R33 in the future and by then im hoping to have most of the bolt ons done so the 10K will go straight to a rebuild or even a RB26 conversion for something diffrent (would have less ks as well)

[Cubes]

Some times its good to do the bolt on stuff while you have the cash to throw around.. Then when the motor needs to be rebuilt you are 'forced' to do it..

Well it works well when there's a better half in your life that complains about how much money is spent on the car.

Its easier to justify that house redraw or loan to 'fix' a broken motor than it is to buy bolt on parts.

[RB SANDY]

shifty stuf

[Light]

Its easier to justify that house redraw or loan to 'fix' a broken motor than it is to buy bolt on parts.

LOL I liked that you are right

[tridentt150v]

Buy neons - - - 10k would get you all the colours!

[Sambo33gtst]

Buy neons - - - 10k would get you all the colours!

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuckyer!

[nizmo_freek]

How i would spend 10k:

Dont sell the car, Keep the car, rb25det's have lots of potential, and r33's are a great car!

3"dump/front pipe

Highflow cat

Some type of japanese cat back, hks,trust etc

Fmic, its up to you what type you use

Standard airbox with K&N filter, or a decent pod (apexi/hks etc) in a decent cold airbox with good ducting

GCG Highflowed standard turbo

Apexi Power FC

Greddy Profec B Spec 2

Nismo 550cc injectors

Nismo fuel pump/Bosch/gtr etc etc

Upgraded clutch

Get it tuned by someone that is well known and recomended by skyline owners

Some 17" or 18" wheels with 235 or 255 tyres on the back and some decent suspension, upgrade the brake pads.

I didnt quote N.Z prices as aussie prices as obviously going to be different.

Edited December 13, 2006 by nizmo_freek

[Devils_Advocate21]

Goto nengun, look dream make list and buy!!!

thats the way to do it, oh and to kill the moment of high power to non rebuilt motor, 244 rwkws at 11psi with gt3037proS and spat the little end bearing Oh 130000 km on the clock??

Little advice, do the basics exhaust(done), fmic, suspension, fuel pump, injectors, pfc, pod filter , coilpacks, cams, and then tune.

By that time you'll have money left over Get use to the power then do the next stage after you save more money, IE: turbo. and just in case always always save and plan for anything that is unexpected that might happen. Saves the heart ache in the end.

Theres no real way or set way you should follow to do upgrades, but then again, why not have a read of others experiences on here then do a list.

The other advice, unless you know its genuine km's for sure, never take notice of the KMS on the dash

My opinion

Cheers A

Edited December 13, 2006 by Devils_Advocate21

[sinistaGTR]

Motor in/out - 1000

Pistons - 1400

Rods - 400 (GTR)

Crank/or machined crank with collar - 800

Upto 3600 before the block is even touched, head gaskets, bearings, new oil pump, etc etc. Mates rates are not counted here im afraid

Either way. IMO, totally not worth building the motor if there is nothing wrong with it.

So many people have made 250rwkw on stock motors and most are still alive.

Geez you are getting ripped off.....

pistons 1100....max

gtr rods 100-150....

motor in out 800 max....