Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Strich9,

For 350rwhp to be reliable they really need a set of larger injectors to be dropped in.

I should rephrase that to "about" 350hp then :dry:

BTW: Much differnence in RB20 to RB25 injectors?

I guess the main point of my post was good luck controlling 350hp with stock suspension/springs/setup etc My suspension setup put a bigger smile on my face than my bigger turbo :P

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

to get 350 you'll need quite big bucks..

full exhaust $2k?

Turbo Kit + fitting $5k?

Injectors $1k?

rails, regulators, pumps $1.5k?

Intercooler $0.5k?

labour and such $0.5k?

TB, plenum, afm $1.5k?

ECU, if going cheapest pfc $1k?

tuning $0.4k?

adds up to more than 10k I say....can't make that much power with that money..also provided you still manage to get your hands on cheap pfc..those things went extinct.. next cheapest option will be the new wold 3D? abour 2.5k last I heard

can do withoutl but best if you have them..I forgot to mention boost controler...

+ that is excluding suspension work, all the stiffening bars, 10k is a scraping amount..and from what I've seen in car mods, they'll almost always ran over budget

LOl to all the people saying selling it and buy a 32.

Yeah yeah sure, sell it and buy a R32 with only 75,000km's on it!

Yeah never mind the steering wheel which disintegrates in your hands because its actually done 350,000km's or the host of other problems your likely to encounter.

Sell it, buy a R32 and spend the $10,000 on generally maintaince just getting things working again.

LOLOL i have a good laugh at people who buy R32's thinking they only have a genuine 70,0000 odd km's on them, what a joke!

Pretty mutch every import has had the km's rewound.

Like most people have said:

Power FC + tune

Full 3" exhaust

suspension

FMIC etc etc

And enjoy your ride while people with 32's spend money just to get the car working as it should.

cheers

LOl to all the people saying selling it and buy a 32.

Yeah yeah sure, sell it and buy a R32 with only 75,000km's on it!

Yeah never mind the steering wheel which disintegrates in your hands because its actually done 350,000km's or the host of other problems your likely to encounter.

Sell it, buy a R32 and spend the $10,000 on generally maintaince just getting things working again.

LOLOL i have a good laugh at people who buy R32's thinking they only have a genuine 70,0000 odd km's on them, what a joke!

Pretty mutch every import has had the km's rewound.

Like most people have said:

Power FC + tune

Full 3" exhaust

suspension

FMIC etc etc

And enjoy your ride while people with 32's spend money just to get the car working as it should.

cheers

There are a lot of rebuilt r32's for around 10k....

if you really aren't keen to sell the car, and do want to chuck away your $10K then I say good on you. :P

if you want to do something a little bit different. I say hunt down a nice R33 GTR engine. whack in the RB26 with a decent clutch. re-use the stock GTR FMIC, put on some pods and a decent exhaust. put on some cam gears, get a PFC and get it tuned for around 1 bar boost (more if it has aftermarket turbos).

this will give you somewhere between 260 and 280rwkw and that great RB26 sound. plus it will be something a little unique.

it 'may' cost just over your $10K but I think you could definately have the engine and clutch fitted within your budget, then do the PFC, cam gears, exhaust etc later.

I realy like that idea ay.... hmmm i'll have a quick search on da net.... see what i can find

Oh yeah, thankyou for all of ur opinions, keep em coming.

Coilovers - 1400

Camber Arms - 200

Front Camber Adj Bushes - 300

Sway bars - 400

Front/Rear Strut Braces - 300

There's 2600 already spent on something more worthwhile than a boat with 350rwhp and no way to control it.

Add a nice set of rims into the mix - 2400

That's 5k

Now bolt-on a high flow - 1000

FMIC - 600

EBC - 300

PFC - 900

That's another 2800

That's almost 8k.

Now whack the last 2k on a nice front bar, some nice tint, and some skirts.

That should be enough - 350hp, GREAT HANDLING, and some decent looks.

Great advice, apart from the rims, i like the ones i have

I realy like that idea ay.... hmmm i'll have a quick search on da net.... see what i can find

Oh yeah, thankyou for all of ur opinions, keep em coming.

the best thing about it is you can make your 250-300rwkw with a pretty stock RB26 so it should be very reliable. or if you dont have any money to mod it at all you will still be well over 200rwkw with just the most basic upgrade (cat back exhaust, pods, 13psi). it already has 440cc injectors so no need to change those either up to nearly 450hp at the engine. plus they sound awesome, and there are lots of choice with upgrades. more torque, more power, better sound, better re-sale. :P Plus dont forget with this idea you can sell your old RB25 for a couple of thousand. :dry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...