Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm..why has this turned into bashing posts ;)

Everybody has different opinions, and that is what the thread is for..constructive comment and some different opinions put forward... i was liking it till it got to bashing :)

Its a bit of a tough question to ask "what is the best all round turbo?" because one thing i have learned after reading all these sorts of threads over the months, is there probably isn't one! One that is good for in traffic, hitting at 2000rpm while giving you 250rwkw at the top end, good fuel economy (for those that don't realise more HP = more petrol) and whatever other "dream" people have. Can't have everything from a turbo,what you make up in one aspect of a turbo, you lose in another. It is all about compromise and what u intend to do with your skyline each day.

Stock turbo and some go fast bits is good enough to take most street cars to bed.. i mean the stock turbo is a very good unit as is compared to many other cars. I'm still trying to work out whether i really want to invest the money in something myself.. there is plenty of time. The more time you spend, the more knowledge you have and the better chance you have of getting something you are happy with.

For straight line: Of course there is no need for high boost..massive turbo, or anything as long as you have good traction to the ground and a good drivers foot. That accounts for a lot, and its a "free upgrade" most sane people should know that. Skylines are in a way the "thinking mans" car when it comes to dragging which is all good... There are the 9s Toranas and the like which are all ass no class - but there is no way you'd even get them out your driveway half the time.

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive never seen a 9 sec gtst before tho

But your right, u of course have to figure out what u want from it, and b0neR has already done that and has asked the question.

Ive got a rehashed T3/T4 with the original R33 exhaust housing hiflowed and a .60 T4 Comp cover over a GT25 comp wheel... I got full boost by 3000 at mo but my exhaust wheel trim needs to be changed because its making the compressor wheel surge a bit because of the quick boost.

3500 full spool is the plan with the new wheel and 250rwkw at 1 bar ..

It hasnt made that much power yet but hopefully the macka special will come together...Its making the times so thats all that matters to me :D

do you count the japanese R33's in 9 second brackets....only they'r on street tyres....

Most gtst do 12s, only because thats almost the point where to get anymore horsepower, the budget doubles.....Hell, if i wanted a 10 second gtst, and had the money, yeah i'd go do it for the sake of it.... but i don't have $50K

Son of sydneykid

and btw, i dont actually have a car, im just a car nut and i love learning about anything and everythin, im only 15, the question was more so for a friend lookin to upgrade his gts-t and to broaden my outlook, but the response has been great anyway, thanx guyz.

Guest MFX_R33

Macka, how have you found your turbo, as i have been looking at doing a similar thing. I already have a highflowed turbo by Prescision Turbos here in Sydney (don't know the specs) but it is basically maxed out at 205rwkw at 17psi. I was looking at simply replacing the compressor housing and wheel, to see if I could push towards the 250rwkw mark at a similar (or lower) boost level. Keeping the same turbine set up I assume I shouldn't increase my boost threshold much.

Anybody have thoughts or experience with this?

Jeff.

Originally posted by benm

thoughts: ?

I'd love to try your ECU+Hiflowed Turbo on my car and see what it could do as im sure i could get more than 220rwkw from it.

What's he have? An EMS or something?

220 should be fine. It depends on what's been done to the turbo.

If they uprated wheel sizes it should be right. Apparently Brendan did a 235 but again - different people, different work done on the turbo.

Personally at $2,000+ I get the feeling high flowing is not my first choice.

But again calling around in Syd./Bris./Melb. - comparable flowing work can be done much cheaper.

Getting a scope on what work is done for what dollars would help.

205kW does sound a bit on the low side but... esp. w/ plenum

T.

Well the guy who did my flow work could not have been more personable.

He explained exactly what he was gonna do and he did the work quickly and too spec. and on budget.

Can't beat that esp. in an area where there's so much dodge.

I was given a max. psi loading on it - a 'never to exceed' warning but you're kidding yourself if you think you should run that pressure and on stock internals.

Now if you had $2,250 which was what GCG wanted, I'd be after a 2530 or something of that calibre but again I'm not exactly after huge kW nor am I after 12 sec. quarters.

T.

You gotta figure in the differences in dynos and the relativity of this.

For Example:

When my car was stock, on the Hills Dyno 140rwkw (DMX, non shootout mode) - On the Uni-group dyno 150 rwkw (DynoDynamics shootout mode) - That's a 7.1% difference.

The 235 rwkw I talk about is off the Hills Dyno - so if I take my 7.1% DD factor - then I am actually at 251 rwkw, which is prolly in line with expectations.

You also gotta look at the torque curve. I prefer lots of torque accross the whole rev range , make the car much more drivable. n other words, it's not all about peak rwkw. (unless you wanna be a HP Hero/Dyno King, nuthin wrong with that BYW, if that is yr thing)

At next opportunity I get, I wanna get a 1/4 mile time cause that is the real yardstick !

Cheers,

Hi guys, our R34GTT RB25DET has had its turbo GCG hi flowed. It makes 250 rwkw at 1.4 bar (which is 20 psi). It is not tuned for a single maximum horsepower number, it has a good spread of power as evidenced by its 12.4 for 1/4.

At around 420 bhp it's getting pretty close to the limit of the standard internals. It gets driven almost every day in Sydney traffic and has been for well over 12 months. Does 3 or 4 drag meetings per year and 4 or 5 circuit sessions. All this on Optimax, no octane boosters or special brews.

We could tomorrow turn the boost up to 1.5 bar (22 psi), stick some Elf Turbo Max in it and tune it for another 40 rwkw easily. But at close to 300 rwkw it wouldn't be as nice to drive, handle traffic easily, live on the circuit for lap after lap and be totally reliable. At 480 bhp it would way over what I consider a safe max for the RB25DET internals, particularly pistons.

So having said all that, the point is we have found on this engine and a number of others, the GCG hi flow does exactly what they say it will do (a bit better in fact) provides good all round performance (daily drive, drag and circuit) and best of all it bolts up to the standard stuff. So no expensive and sometimes unreliable fabrication.

The only thing that comes close to this spread of capability is the pair of HKS 2530's we have on the GTR, but they cost 5 times as much.

Hope that clarifies why we consider it to be the best "all round".

  • 1 month later...

in zoom's No 46 issue. I saw a section gives information about Toyota's turbo. In issue No.42 they have info about Nissan's turbo. Does anyone here got that issue and could post out the info about skyline r33 gtst turbo's info.

like Max Boost and Max rwkw?

thanx.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...