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Just jumping in with a quick red herring, since the usual suspects are on.

Who has CP pistons? I called Rocket for Arias 1.5mmOS for the RB25DETT and they think there will be 8 weeks wait. Personally I'd like to get the block in before that.

Any other alternatives? Wiseco? I have a great report on those in Honda but what about in teh RB's? PM or email if you don't want to whore this thread.

ring Mark Jacobsen for CP's Geoff...PM me if you want his mobile number...Mark can get you Wiseco's too and has had great experience with them as they are not a "heavy breather"

Just jumping in with a quick red herring, since the usual suspects are on.

Who has CP pistons? I called Rocket for Arias 1.5mmOS for the RB25DETT and they think there will be 8 weeks wait. Personally I'd like to get the block in before that.

Any other alternatives? Wiseco? I have a great report on those in Honda but what about in teh RB's? PM or email if you don't want to whore this thread.

Geoff, I got my CP's from Just Jap in Sydney.

Great pistons.

I thought you said valve clearance, stem to guide clearance is double on the exhaust valves at around 2-3 thou" from memory and about 1-1.5 thou"on the inlet.

wrxhoon i think your missing my whole point which was take to someone who KNOWS rb26 heads and i was basically make quick referrence to some of the gear which is different about the rb26 heads to the normal heads service centers deal with. I was not trying to give exact clearance spec's of the top of my head, as there have been way to many beers sunk since i last spec'd my valve clearances (to guides). All i remember is they are uniquely large clearances on the exhaust side and it catches many people out. Where it's 2-3 thou or 4 thou isn't what this guy is interested in i believe but more the issues he need to deal with to built a strong health rb26.

pete

O i forget get some sump baffles or a new sump if it fits into your bugget.

look for oil control thread by sydkid and get most of that done aswell.

LOL RB26s cheap i wish! Dont think the tomei gaskit kit has everythink you need for a rebuild aswell?

Main thing to remember is anythink you dont do now could cost you another rebuild later.

O i forget get some sump baffles or a new sump if it fits into your bugget.

look for oil control thread by sydkid and get most of that done aswell.

LOL RB26s cheap i wish! Dont think the tomei gaskit kit has everythink you need for a rebuild aswell?

Main thing to remember is anythink you dont do now could cost you another rebuild later.

a rebuild in the future after this current 1 i gotta do is something i really wanna avoid. the problem is i know stuff all about motors and rebuilds.

theres no way im gonna be doing it myself. im leaving it all to a mechanic. i still would like to know some things that i could get done now when the motor is out.

like extrude honing the exhaust manifold. port polish the head. ive read u guys talking about it. as i said above im :/

apart from resizing the valve openings, what else is involved in a port and polish??

what kind of things do i need to get done with the bottom end? i have been led to believe that the bottom end in rb26's are tough as and wont need any work.

sorry for the hijack

ring Mark Jacobsen for CP's Geoff...PM me if you want his mobile number...Mark can get you Wiseco's too and has had great experience with them as they are not a "heavy breather"
Geoff, I got my CP's from Just Jap in Sydney.

Great pistons.

Thankyou gentlemen. I might actually give the Wiseco's a shot, but if I can grab Marks number that would be great Paul. PM sent.

Can I suggest you not install forged pistons. I did in my RB25DET, and I cannot stop it devouring oil.

Forged pistons need to be HOT, and my experience is that normal driving does not seem to introduce enough heat to force the piston to expand properly.

What piston to bore clearances did you use? What pistons?

well fellas

heres a copy of a parts list from a pro engines build that was posted on the site a few moons ago

should be of some use to a few

theres abit to then aye,but i no when i do my biuld ill be doing it right the first time as i dont want to be up for more costs if it lets go..

i use the wiseco pistons 87mm with a 4 thou clearance, invest in some good rod prepping, and get new ARP bolts for the rods, as was said before the stock GTR bolts are well BS. get your cranck checked, and use new bearings allround, i reccomend the ACL black race series, top stuff. and i run the wiseco pistons on 450 AWKW and i drive my car pretty much every day. treat your engine correctly ie good warm up, on time service, let it cool down. and yea owning a RB 26 is like having a super high maintance GF, ie your wallet will be begging for its life :)

well fellas

heres a copy of a parts list from a pro engines build that was posted on the site a few moons ago

should be of some use to a few

looks to be well priced and what people should expect to be paying

Mate I just rebuilt my GTR about 6 months ago this is what I did

NISSAN N1 CRANK SHAFT

NISSAN N1 OIL PUMP

NISSAN N1 WATERPUMP

NISSAN GASKET KIT

NISSAN TIMING BELT

EXEDY TWIN PLATE CLUTCH

TOMIE OIL RESTRICTOR

ARIAS FORGED PISTONS

EAGLE RODS

ARP HEAD STUD KIT

COMETIC HEAD GASKET

RESLEAVED BLOCK AND DECK

KING MAIN BEARINGS

KIN BIGEND BEARINGS

PERFORMANCE VALVE SPRINGS

HEAD SERVICED PORT & POLISH AND K LINNERS

SUMP BAFFLES

INJECTOR FLOW TESTING

DRIVE BELTS

NISSAN COOLANT

OIL & FILTERS

HKS 2530 TWIN TURBOS

HKS DUMP PIPES

HKS SUPERDRAGGER SYSTEM

HKS CAMS

OIL COOLER

HIGHFLOW CAT

850CC DENSO INJECTORS

BOSCH FUEL PUMPS

TRUST TWIN PODS

ROM ECU

STRUTE BRACE

REAR SWAY BAR

ENGINE DAMPNER

AFTERMARKET SUSPENSION coils

d jetro

eboost 2

+ OTHER STUFF I'VE FORGOT

BUILT BY TIM @ SIKEMWREX RACING

This setup for 550rwhp daily

mini-ClintsGTR_004crank.jpg

tn_DSC01260.jpg

Can I suggest you not install forged pistons. I did in my RB25DET, and I cannot stop it devouring oil.

Forged pistons need to be HOT, and my experience is that normal driving does not seem to introduce enough heat to force the piston to expand properly.

Forged pistons do expand but if an engine is built with the right clearances it shouldn't really burn any oil.

I would suggest as Abobob alluded to that the engine wasn't built tight enough.

On the upside- when an engine is built loose it will typically make more power even though it consumes oil. Race engines typically have 6-8 thou bore to piston clearance and chew through the oil but there is less friction and therefore less heat generated which improves the reliability and life of he engine.

  • 1 month later...
Can I suggest you not install forged pistons. I did in my RB25DET, and I cannot stop it devouring oil.

Forged pistons need to be HOT, and my experience is that normal driving does not seem to introduce enough heat to force the piston to expand properly.

Should this be of concern for me? My motor does take a long time to heat up, and you've really got to flog it if you want it to be hot. I don't mind warming my car up for five minutes (I do it anyway) but would that be long enough with forgies.

Do all brands of forged pistons take an equal time to heat up and set into position?

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