Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

as the topic states I have a HKS GT2530-63T (446179-21) which has had the rear bearing let go.

it is rebuildable for someone who can be bothered/has the money.

*dont know what its worth so shoot us an offer to pm and we can go from there.

post-20890-1173409830.jpg

EDIT: had a few offers at 200, which sounds fairly reasonable, but no one commiting. so put the money down and you'll snap it up.

post-20890-1173409852.jpg

I also have the compressor cover to suit.

it is the slip on inlet/outlet stlye as opposed to the flanged option.

*dont know a price on this either so again just shoot me an offer.

a BRAND NEW t28 turbine housing to suit is also available (sold pending payment)

post-20890-1173409841.jpg

I also have an adjustable wastegate actuator and braket for sale from a brand new garrett turbo

will suit garrett/hks internally gated turbos.

absolutely brand new garrett item, never used. sold

cheers lads.

Edited by rb20inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/
Share on other sites

hey guys,

as the topic states I have a HKS GT2530-63T (446179-21) which has had the rear bearing let go.

it is easily rebuildable for someone who can be bothered/has the money.

dont know what its worth so shoot us an offer to pm and we can go from there.

I also have the compressor cover to suit.

it is the slip on inlet/outlet stlye as opposed to the flanged option.

also just shoot me an offer.

cheers lads.

just thought i'd remind u before the mods get on ur case...as per forum rules u do need to set a price.

pics would help too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2752645
Share on other sites

i dont have a clue what it is worth.

is there any precedent? have any similar items been sold?

i could say $1000 but that's stupidly high so what's the point.

throw me an offer and the worse i can say is no.

i'll try borrow a camera and take some photos but i'm sure everyone has seen a turbo before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2752786
Share on other sites

i would like to see some pics thanks and maybe a price range...?

i sold a pair (one blown one and one good one for $1000) so your blown one would be worth about $200.

this sounds reasonable...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2753692
Share on other sites

We really really need to see pics of this . As has been mentioned before the only unique parts of a HKS GT2530 (minus the turbine housing) are its compressor wheel - and I suppose the compressor housing but only because it was profiled by Garrett and has accurate clearance on the comp wheel vanes .

Like any other turbo centre section the GT BB type have "consumable" parts of which the bearing housing is one . This is because the turbine end has a piston ring style seal running in a groove machined into the bearing housing itself . When the rear end bearing gets tired the shaft wants to orbit instead or running concentric the piston ring wants to bottom out/revolve and chew out the bearing housing grove . You should really look at the turbine blade tips to see if it has rubbed , they are well made to withstand heat and centrifugal forces but have minimum material out at the tips to reduce innertia so dont take kindly to kissing its housing at 130000 + rpm .

I'd reckon a "rebuild" would consist of obtaining another GT2860R cartridge and fitting / balancing the assembly , bolt the compressor housing on and it becomes a "2530" .

So the value is really in the compressor wheel/housing combination (provided they did not touch) because there is a good chance the rest is used up .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2754322
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm no turbo guru so i don't know what is involved in rebuilding. I havn't had any quotes done

There is a slight change in gradient on the very tip of the turbine wheel blades and seeing as it was the rear bearing that let go I'd say maybe the rear wheel has touched?

actuator is a brand new garrett adjustable one. will definitely suit garret or hks turbos. dont know about vg30... and havn't got one to check it with

Edited by rb20inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2776087
Share on other sites

We really really need to see pics of this . As has been mentioned before the only unique parts of a HKS GT2530 (minus the turbine housing) are its compressor wheel - and I suppose the compressor housing but only because it was profiled by Garrett and has accurate clearance on the comp wheel vanes .

Like any other turbo centre section the GT BB type have "consumable" parts of which the bearing housing is one . This is because the turbine end has a piston ring style seal running in a groove machined into the bearing housing itself . When the rear end bearing gets tired the shaft wants to orbit instead or running concentric the piston ring wants to bottom out/revolve and chew out the bearing housing grove . You should really look at the turbine blade tips to see if it has rubbed , they are well made to withstand heat and centrifugal forces but have minimum material out at the tips to reduce innertia so dont take kindly to kissing its housing at 130000 + rpm .

I'd reckon a "rebuild" would consist of obtaining another GT2860R cartridge and fitting / balancing the assembly , bolt the compressor housing on and it becomes a "2530" .

So the value is really in the compressor wheel/housing combination (provided they did not touch) because there is a good chance the rest is used up .

Cheers A .

Can someone put all this in plain simple english??

Only things that I'd like to know ...in simple yes/no fashion

1. is this going to be an expensive rebuild (i.e: costing more than a grand)?

2. Is there any performance gain over the stock gts-t turbo?

3. is it a direct bolt on for an rb25det?

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2776502
Share on other sites

here I go on the 20 questions to the best of my knowledge:

* actuator came with brand new garrett turbo and I have no use for it

* turbo was on an rb20det. it was insane fun to drive, as many others who have experienced will verify. read the sticky thread.

* it will bolt up to the rb20/25 but as stated it will require the oil and water lines to make it work. i have the oil feed and return lines but they are being used on my car and not included in this. I had water lines made up at pirtek to suit the application.

* i'll try to borrow a camera and take some pictures and attempt to load them up but i'm not a real computer guru so i'll enlist the assistance of my more technologically minded mates (aka. computer geeks)

off the topic but, if anyone knows of any/could keep an eye out for any s14/15 front hubs as stated in my sig.

cheers, CR

Edited by rb20inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2782814
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
We really really need to see pics of this . As has been mentioned before the only unique parts of a HKS GT2530 (minus the turbine housing) are its compressor wheel - and I suppose the compressor housing but only because it was profiled by Garrett and has accurate clearance on the comp wheel vanes .

Like any other turbo centre section the GT BB type have "consumable" parts of which the bearing housing is one . This is because the turbine end has a piston ring style seal running in a groove machined into the bearing housing itself . When the rear end bearing gets tired the shaft wants to orbit instead or running concentric the piston ring wants to bottom out/revolve and chew out the bearing housing grove . You should really look at the turbine blade tips to see if it has rubbed , they are well made to withstand heat and centrifugal forces but have minimum material out at the tips to reduce innertia so dont take kindly to kissing its housing at 130000 + rpm .

I'd reckon a "rebuild" would consist of obtaining another GT2860R cartridge and fitting / balancing the assembly , bolt the compressor housing on and it becomes a "2530" .

So the value is really in the compressor wheel/housing combination (provided they did not touch) because there is a good chance the rest is used up .

Cheers A .

I've just been through all this,,,,,,If the turbine has touched the housing you can kiss the reco goodbye. yeah and bearing tracks, check them. P.S if anybody knows someone that has a Gt2530 cartrage new, i'm interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2819867
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
    • Yup but for me its the HR ! Cut my teeth on the old holden 6s in the day ! And here's me thinking in the day it was also the 300ZX and the Mitsubishi GT3000 ! All, as well had good lines, but always seemed to need finishing off, style wise.
×
×
  • Create New...