Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys, I know this has been talked about before and I've been searching the site for a couple hours now with only more confusion as a result...!

For a S1 Stagea, what 3wire replacement O2 sensor do I buy?

The sensor in there at the moment is marked;

A24-A21139 6ZO44

So I presume the 'A's mean it has an 18mm thread and the 'Z' indicates it's a Zirconia sensor.

One thread said it doesn't matter which I use as long as;

1, thread size is the same (although that thread was talking about skylines and 12mm threads)

2, it's a zirconia style sensor

3, the lead length is enough (but I'll probably have to cut and solder the stag plug on - so length can be made up there..)

So can anyone please give me (and anyone else who searches) a straight answer, whether it be an EA-EL ford sensor or whatever... cause some say they are all the same, some say not - one website I read said there were 0-1v sensors and 0.1-0.9v sensors but I'm not sure how to tell what I've got or need...

I don't even know if the one I have is factory or a replacement in the first place.? :(

Thanks in advanced :(

void

Edited by Mr Void
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147649-o2-sensor-replacements/
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127517

Although the title says EL sensor into R32, it's the same for R33. Wiring info and part numbers are there too.

You may receive a better response if you post maintenance stuff in the General Maintenance folder :(

Cheers

Mark

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127517

Although the title says EL sensor into R32, it's the same for R33. Wiring info and part numbers are there too.

You may receive a better response if you post maintenance stuff in the General Maintenance folder :(

Cheers

Mark

Ahh, O.k., cheers..re the section, I chucked this in here cause I still get confused as to which R series use the equivalent parts etc..

Thanks guys

void

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...