Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

adding a bigger fuel pump shouldn't affect the AFR's unless the stock pump was dying. the fuel pressure reg makes it so no more fuel enters the system.

having the tune a bit richer up top is good. it cools the exhaust gas temperature, which is good for people running the stock turbo as it prevents the turbo dying so soon. sure you may not have the top end power of someone with a leaner tune up top, but you are running a safer tune, and the turbo will last a touch longer.

well i showed u all the dyno print out say what u will but im happy with what i got and i dont think his dyno would be out. even ray said that he has never had a car on his dyno make that much power with the mods i have so i dunno but i brought the car stock 2 1/2yrs ago from kamikaze motor and iv had the turbo out b4 and it looked pritty dam stock to me anyway i trust rays dyno maybe the people with low dyno reading should head down there and see what power they get. i love reading what arm chair experts have to say there so funny

CEF11E it wasnt 9psi at 6km/ph it was 60km/ph and he wasnt holding it on the dyno or what ever u where saying the reason it dips then goes up is because the knock senser detected a tiny knock so it retards it for a second so im ment to belive the knock was that small that ray couldnt even hear it with some funky special headphone he had on

One of these threads again.. :P

Its possible for an R33 with a bit of boost, exhaust and fmic to crack 200rwkw... All though its most definitely not common.

Out of many here in Adelaide I've only ever known of one that was able to do so. Good old Bugalugs here in SA. :)

If its any constellation it was a 1995 Model and had bits and pieces from the s1 and s2. It went on to run a 13.44@106.77 with a 2.183 60ft.

CEF11E it wasnt 9psi at 6km/ph it was 60km/ph and he wasnt holding it on the dyno or what ever u where saying the reason it dips then goes up is because the knock senser detected a tiny knock so it retards it for a second so im ment to belive the knock was that small that ray couldnt even hear it with some funky special headphone he had on

my bad... ment 60.. was typing in the dark

BTW. I am not having a go at you. I am just pointing out my observations :laugh: I am sure you wanted comments otherwise you would not have posted results here

Edited by CEF11E

well with those mods it is fairly high but im not too surprised as my very stock 33 with only a turbo back exhaust is making 170rwkw and thats at stock boost spiking to about 8.5-9psi. my estimation is that with with a fmic and boost to 12psi id be close to 200kw. not sure how much a gutted cat helps but it definitely reduces restrictions in airflow. so these figures dont surprise me...

The shape of the curve looks pretty normal to me for those mods.

Who cares about the peak power value. Wait......a dyno princess would, seems we still have plenty about on these forums these days :laugh: ... My car is so tough on the dyno....drive it?...oh no why would I care about that?

somthing aint normal - 210rwkw on 10psi? thats like 0.7 bar

at the end of the day though, dyno is just there for tuning. I wouldnt worry about a power fc at this stage though, probably not much point if you are making that sort of power, I havent seen much more power out of a stock turbo even with power fc

I got TBE, Remapped ECU and SMIC, running stock turbo on 8psi.

194rwkw @ DRC Dyno Day (unhappy dyno but I was running a lil lean, 12.5:1, cause of faulty stock pump. Most people thought readings were about 10% low)

196rwkw @ Bel Garage (Bosch 044 and a nice 11.8:1 AFR)

Hey mate just quickly, I'm assuming this is a road car yeah?

Not only that but also someone has mentioned what colour your car is? And i'm assuming that is your cars rego in the ID number on the dyno graph (and file name), AND it has your name on the Dyno graph, AND you're telling everyone reading this forum you have a gutted cat?

Hmmmm....

Dude I might be wrong, but for your own sake at least black out your rego details if those three letters and numbers are indeed your rego details.

Edited by insu
i run 14psi on the stock turbo. when i go back to 10 it feels so slow.

and yes i know the turbo won't last long.

Depending how you drive.

If your a squirt here squirt there type person it will probably last longer that your willing to put up with it before you throw on a bigger huffer.

If your a crazy mofo that likes to hold third gear down then click fourth as you weave in and out of traffic (as I see some here in Adelaide do) then it won't last long at all. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...