Jump to content
SAU Community

My 32 4 Door Drifter - Stadium Drift Pics And 3071r Pics * Check Last Page*


Recommended Posts

Hey kids.. thought i'd show people what ive been up too, I got Toffy's old 32 4 door from tassie, it came with apexi coilovers, some mesh rims, final konnextion kit with mashed bar, Rb25 turbo, cooler exhaust and so on. Was a nice basic set up and the RB20 is in pretty good cond. So far i have been focusing on the suspension side of things to make the car handle and grip FAR better then my cefiro did on the track, and it works! Heres the lowdown.

-Brand new HSD coilovers with 8kg fronts and 5kg rears

-Whiteline Swaybars all round, 27mm front and 24mm rear both adjustable

-Drift shop rear camber arms and rear traction rods

-Alloy pineapples

-Hicas lock bar

Motor wise i have since ripped out the radiator that was in the car and fitted an RB25 rad, and put the stock shroud and thermo on as i had a few temp issues at a warm mallala prac night. I have since chucked on

-Highflow RB25 turbo with stage 3 wheel

-remapped ECU by Jeff from the Speed Lab

Dyno'ed at 205 rwkw on 15psi boost, comes on a lot better and makes more torque (slightly) then the KKR i used to have, i just need some GTR injectors to crank 230 rwkw.

Just got some new rims too,

2X Drift R's in 17X8 with awesome offset no spacers needed

4X Rays GT LM2's in 17X9 with +13 ish offset, currently has 255 rubber on them as they came off a GTR/ so they only on the back atm.

Whats the car like to drive? Awesome.. it grips so well. you can really put the power down hard through the corners and it just grips, Out at mallala its awesome to drift also as the car has a lot of grip mid corner, where as my Ceffy just squatted down and span up, With good 235's on the back of my car it wont spin up 1st off the line at all, where as the ceffy would spin 1st, 2nd and 3rd lol.

Now that the car is set up, i'll be giving it a respray (same colour, just a fresh coat) with GTR front bar and the FK skirts and rear bar. Should be hot. defo needs a respray now... i have a black rear right door after a sideways incident into a wooden reflector post... :laugh:

Some pics for now.

dsc4218bz6.jpg

1024530aj3.jpg

1024604de6.jpg

Edited by Simon-R32
  • Replies 156
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey, Looking nice. I love 4 drs But yeah really nice :P

What are FK sideskirts and rear bar? Could you show me please as I could be interested in purchasing a new rear bar in the new year.

Also are you getting a genuine GTR bar or just a copy? If a copy, how much and where from also? Thank you, Good luck.

-Jimmy.

Hey Jimmy

The Final Konnextion kit looks like this

nissan_img_02_b.jpg

nissan_img_02_a.jpg

no idea where you can get them from tho... my fronmt bar is smashed, so i was just going to get a GTR Copy, theres several people selling copies to suit a 32 gtst on forums etc. , they are about $350 ish

Edited by simon-ae86

Got bored so i put the kit on lol, along with the Rays wheels.

They are Rays LM GT2's in 17X9 all round, the rears have some crazy 255/40 rubber on them atm.. tad wide!

1004697im2.jpg

1004695to1.jpg

1004694dv5.jpg

Just need a front bar now :P

nah it didnt and yeah your right, they make a huge diff, but it doesnt stop there. to get the most grip you need to change the traction rods, camber arms, toe adjustors and swaybars and set them all up properly for them to work

its got a lot to do with the leading upper arm adjustments and getting both the camber, toe and length of the upper arm right to get the desired effect.

then theres spring rate, damper settings and getting the sway bar right.

i think its near spot on, i will be testing it at mallala in a few weeks.. if it works i'll let you know :()

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...