Jump to content
SAU Community

Urgent: Ebc In Sydney Needed

derek zoolander

By derek zoolander,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

derek zoolander Explorer

derek zoolander

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I'm in the unfortunate position of having to either pay for an engineer's certificate for my R34 or losing my rego. Obviously i've opted for the engineer's certificate :P

I've finally come to the realisation though that it'd probably be for the best if i did all my mods now so that i could get it all listed under the one certificate and NOT have to go through all of this again.

Thing is, I'm getting the Cert on thursday, which means i need an EBC TONIGHT so i can install tomorrow morning. Any one selling one in Sydney that i can pick up tonight? Make me some offers, i'm willing to pay a reasonable price for the right EBC!!!

Give me a call on 0415556722 and help a brother out!!!

Willing to swap / cash adjustment with my Blitz Supersound BOV - great cond.

Thanks dudes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147963-urgent-ebc-in-sydney-needed/
Share on other sites
Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

If you want new, I would be inclined to ring Leo from JDM Concept, he may have some Profec B Spec II stock available and hes in Sydney so might be able to sort something out for you.

His email is SAU@JDMCONCEPT.COM.AU

derek zoolander Explorer

derek zoolander

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  Blitz said:
If you want new, I would be inclined to ring Leo from JDM Concept, he may have some Profec B Spec II stock available and hes in Sydney so might be able to sort something out for you.

His email is SAU@JDMCONCEPT.COM.AU

Thank you. Would prefer used, but beggers cant be choosers.

You dont happen to have his number would you? Otherwise, will emai.

derek zoolander Explorer

derek zoolander

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  2rismo said:
No? Not even a "no thankyou" ?

Hey sorry mate ... i had already headed off by the time you posted your message up. i wasnt purposely trying to be rude. :P

Thanks for the offer.

Thanks also to Leo from JDM Concept. It was a killer drive down south from the north-west, but he saved me some dosh and is a good dude to deal with. Thanks blitz for the referal.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      V36 wreck (edited from V37 by mod)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • MBS206
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • MBS206
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Is it oil smoke or fuel smoke? They smell different.
×
×
  • Create New...