Should Oil Cooler Be Replaced?

[fritter]

Hi People,

I had a bearing failure and as a result had metal go through my engine. The engine is now rebuilt and I was womdering if I should replace the oil cooler before running it again. Some people have said that no matter how much you flush em that some metal could remain inside em and potentially enter your engine later. Also the engine builder suggests not running the oil cooler during run in. What do ya's think?

[djr81]

Look, if you are that worried about it, just buy a new cooler. They are not that expensive if you just pruchase the ehat exchanger. make sure you correctly identify the fittings before you order it. Try the PWR stuff.

As for not running it during run in, well it probably wouldn't hurt to do what the man says.

[R33_Rob]

"Look, if you are that worried about it, just buy a new cooler. They are not that expensive if you just pruchase the ehat exchanger. make sure you correctly identify the fittings before you order it."

thats exactly right. and for the risk of what. $300. Why not buy it so feel 100% confident in your car next time you drive it

[MANWHORE]

A decent oil cooler is not 300$. If you get a 300$ one, it's likely to leak, and might have crappy construction and actually release metal into your engine.

[SilverECR33]

i reckon, flush with water, then air, then water, then vacume, then do again, just to be safe. the water should carry it,, air should blast it out, or vacume reverse, should be cleaned out right?

if u dont take the chance, ill have it, pm me,

Edited December 23, 2006 by silverbulletR33

[MANWHORE]

I dunno about the water. Oil isn't soluable in water.

I'd probably go about it flushnig it the same way as an intercooler. Metho and a bit of kero/turps mixed. Just swish it, and the yucky oil with crap should come out.

[PSI Parts]

This is a little bit off the topic of the cooler being replaced, but wanted to say a few things in regards to oil coolers themselves. Probably the biggest oversight with oil coolers is the actual need for them (I sell them, so this is not a sale ploy, but rather sincere advice). I don't want to insult your intelligence so if this is common sense to you just ignore it.

All oils have a certain operating temperature in which the oil performs at its best. Oil coolers not setup with a thermostat can alter the oil temperature levels which can delay the oil getting and staying at the optimum level. Therefore before any oil cooler is actually put into the system buy a quality oil temp gauge and determine the sort of driving you do and the effect on the oil temp it has. As most people's oil will not go beyond the range specified by the manufacturer. Then, and only then, look at buying an oil cooler kit. And as previous posts have eluded to buying a quality oil cooler is the safer option as cheaper Asian copy runs the risk of poor manufacturing and disintegrating into your engine.

This is purely my opinion, therefore take from it what you will. However I strongly believe that oil coolers are a very misguided modification that people make in order to look good, without ever thinking of the affects it will produce.

[R33S2]

I had a similar problem on a motor bike, I flushed and flushed and flushed but i could still see tiny amounts coming out, in the end I replaced it.

[MANWHORE]

This is a little bit off the topic of the cooler being replaced, but wanted to say a few things in regards to oil coolers themselves. Probably the biggest oversight with oil coolers is the actual need for them (I sell them, so this is not a sale ploy, but rather sincere advice). I don't want to insult your intelligence so if this is common sense to you just ignore it.

All oils have a certain operating temperature in which the oil performs at its best. Oil coolers not setup with a thermostat can alter the oil temperature levels which can delay the oil getting and staying at the optimum level. Therefore before any oil cooler is actually put into the system buy a quality oil temp gauge and determine the sort of driving you do and the effect on the oil temp it has. As most people's oil will not go beyond the range specified by the manufacturer. Then, and only then, look at buying an oil cooler kit. And as previous posts have eluded to buying a quality oil cooler is the safer option as cheaper Asian copy runs the risk of poor manufacturing and disintegrating into your engine.

This is purely my opinion, therefore take from it what you will. However I strongly believe that oil coolers are a very misguided modification that people make in order to look good, without ever thinking of the affects it will produce.

What you have said there is spot on the money. Getting a cooler without a thermostat certainly does make the oil take longer to get up to temp.

In relation to poor quality components, I would like to make a correction in that Asian parts are often stereotyped as being of poor quality. Asians love to reverse engineer stuff (take it apart), learn from it and copy it. As they have very cheap labour there, they can make very high quality components.

Parts made by bogans are of no better quality. As I have often seen, aussie stuff is often overpriced, and of a poor quality. Take holden adn ford as an example. I have owned both, and have had nothing but trouble. After my dad bought a toyato camry, I vouched never to buy a holden or ford again.

[PSI Parts]

Yes I agree there is a certain stigma attached to parts that come from Asia. And although there are some very good stuff that is reasonably priced, a lot of it however has very poor quality control mechanisms in place, and manufacturing processes are not standardised. The debate will go on as to what is best value for money, but as with any critical engine component things like warranty, workmanship, integrity and precision all have to weighed up. Just don't fall into the trap of going the cheapest, as doing a job right the first time will be far cheaper than doing a dodgy job a few times.

[MANWHORE]

Agreed

But going back to the thread topic, It's a tough one. Either $800 for a new cooler.

Or spend half a day flushing it a hundred tmies until there is absolutey nothing in it.

[Godzilla32]

Solvent would be good to flush it with as it leaves no residue and dries very quickly.

[GTRgeoff]

Take it to an engine reconditioners for an acid dip/clean. Would be lucky to be $30.

When you see how much material remains in a block after machining and honing you would be worried about the remains, but for an extra $70 my reco shop does a full pre build clean and bags the block and it is spotless.