Intercooler Water Spray

[Cubes]

The Water Spray won't make any difference on a cold day well not enough to prevent detonation.

It will basically only help prevent detonation on those hotish days where it usually doesn't ping on the cooler days.

Try a colder range plug as it removes heat from the comb. chamber hence helps prevent detonation.

I currently have a Bosh 910 Fuel pump (good for 250rwkw), 14psi, 25deg timing, 3" exhaust from turbo, FMIC and the AF is sorted using a fuel pressure bleed to stop over fueling as with the fuel pump she was around the 10:1.

I can hear slight detonation so i'm going to pull out the origional plugs and slap in a cooler set to see if that helps the detonation, if not well i'll have to back the timing off a degree or two, the funny thing is that on the dyno it didn't ping.. ?!?!?!?

Anyway she made 156rwkw but boost droped up top to around 11-12psi

The Mid range is good.

If I can hold the boost, apparently I will be able to make 170rwkw, so i'm told.

Also with a bottle of octane boost to jump her up to around 101RON she doesn't ping.!

[Jay95R33]

After reading these posts I had an idea.

What you need is a simple circuit to keep the spray on for a while to stop heat soak after a run (ready for the next one) and to be able to press a button and give it a good squirt just before a run.

Soooo, how about this. Use a presure switch so when it hits say 7psi the squirties come on and stay on for 15 seconds after the presure drops below 7psi (just a delay really).

And wire it up so when you press the manual switch inside the cabin (just before a run) the squirties squirt away for the 15 second period as well.

This way you have manual control before a run, and automatic control after a run.

And just have a switch in the engine bay somewhere were you can turn the whole thing off in winter.

But as said before, it will only be usefull in hotter weather.

BTW: I'm LOVING this minus 4 and 5 nights we're having here :P

[uLa32]

Originally posted by INASNT

dont know about summer man, i wanna run more boost without having detonation!!!

i know what you mean... and if you still have that stock cooler on then you will need it for sure... doesnt matter, no rush, you got 5 months or thereabouts to install a water spray or some sort.

[rev210]

My peltier effect cooler works even on boost. When not on I can't touch the ic after a blast, when on its only mildly warm.

Check the 'free horsepower' thread on SDU forum - performance section. Its got some people saying why it shouldn't work as well, oh well maybe they can work out why it works now.

[ex-static]

Howd you go with this INASNT?

I didnt get round to it, I just put in some 0.8mm plugs, and upped the boost with no detonation.. so im running around 11psi.. and loving it

I went for a fang last night with the gf in the car, and got from about 30ks to 140ks in about 4 secs.. the girlie sh*t herslef and ordered me to tell her when I was going to do that

I loved it.

Hopefully by summer I'll have a FMIC anyway..

[Guest INASNT]

ex-static

Sat i was at a car DB contest so didnt have anytime!

Sunday me and grim were stuffing around with the cold air partitation template and customising it to fit our pods. My POD is 2 big for the template so we will be making it next week!

Oh and GRIM changed his plugs to sum new NGK Iridium 0.9mm 1's!

I was thinking of rewiring my rear washer pump to power the IC spray!

[ex-static]

Yea I got the 0.8mm plugs.. runs nice, the idle is a little different.. but up top, she gets up and dances.

[Guest INASNT]

which plugs did u get? and what heat range were they?

[ex-static]

ummm... just typical NGK Copper Plugs gapped to .8mm

seem to do the trick.. theres no point going crazy with plugs if you change them every 10,000ks

[Guest INASNT]

grim got the iridium 1's and they worked sweet! the car idled perfect 2!

[HEL-RZA]

The term hot or cold spark plugs has got absolutly nothing to do with temperature and has got every thing to do with the design of the ignition system. basicaly the ignition is made up of a coil a resistor and a switching device (in skylines the ECU contorls ingnition). In some cars the resistor is built in to the ingnition. it may be in the leads, distributor or ecu. so the spark plug has no resistance and is termed hot. but in other cars (especialy older ones) there is no built in resistor so it is incorperated into the sparkplug and is termed cold. that is why i dont understand when people say that they can reduce pinging by changing to a "colder" plug. do these people know what they are doing?:confused:

Me thinks not.

[rev210]

Originally posted by HEL-RZA

The term hot or cold spark plugs has got absolutly nothing to do with temperature and has got every thing to do with the design of the ignition system. ....... that is why i dont understand when people say that they can reduce pinging by changing to a "colder" plug. do these people know what they are doing?:confused:            

Me thinks not.

Me thinks maybe.

NGk and the like have often got a number indicating the effective temp range of the electrode. For instance a ....BP5 plug will not withstand the high revs of a race engine, high compression motor, turbo or rotory very long at all ( the electrode will overheat -- see manufacturers symptoms of over heated plug ie; melted or burnt) a ....BP8, 9 or even 10 will however, but its effective heat range will tend to cause inefficient combustion in lower rpms where mixtures may be richer (on a race engine).

Now whether the heat range reffers to the materials used in the electrode or the nature of the spark produced, it is none the less a usefull tuning guide, one which if you get it wrong will cause no-end of stuffing around even if it doesn't damage the engine (you are right, it would a missfire more than ping).

[Cubes]

Basically how a colder range spark plugs reduces pinging is that it removes more heat from the combustion chamber, and you are able to put more timing in to it.

For example My R32 running 1 bar of boost on the std plugs would ping more when running around 30degree's Timing compared to when I slapped the cooler plugs in. Mind you the pinging was due to a slight lean out in the mid that has now been fixed But yes the Cooler plugs did reduce the pinging considerably.

If you run a hotter range plug in a motor that is making 100% more power there is a possibility that bits can break off the spark plug and damage your motor, Apparently.

I remember reading some where that for every 75hp increase you are supposed to go 1 range cooler.

Basically they opperate more efficient at higher power levels which do = more heat.

[b2barker]

I would not rely on IC spray to hold off detonation. The spray on your IC cools mainly through evaporation, rather than the temp of the fluid (tests I have seen show stuffing your water bottle with ice blocks has little effect on the ability to cool in both IC sprays and injection sprays). If you are relying on a IC spray to cool that little bit extra to stop detonation on a hot day you should look fitting a temp warning so that if the spray is ineffective do to empty bottle or high humidity you can drop your boost and protect your engine. If you live in Nth Qld I wouldn't even bother fitting one (for the same reason my Evap Air Con is just big fan in 80-100% humidity).

[Taso84]

I would not rely on IC spray to hold off detonation. The spray on your IC cools mainly through evaporation, rather than the temp of the fluid (tests I have seen show stuffing your water bottle with ice blocks has little effect on the ability to cool in both IC sprays and injection sprays). If you are relying on a IC spray to cool that little bit extra to stop detonation on a hot day you should look fitting a temp warning so that if the spray is ineffective do to empty bottle or high humidity you can drop your boost and protect your engine. If you live in Nth Qld I wouldn't even bother fitting one (for the same reason my Evap Air Con is just big fan in 80-100% humidity).

Beat me to it mate,

The way that the water aids cooling is much like the sweating mechanism in ur body, heat is transfered from ur body into the sweat and it is then evaporated.

What alot of ppl dont realise however, is that the heat energy is realed mainly through the proccess of evaporation, since it requires a substanital amount of energy to convert water from liquid ito gaseous form.

That is y u will notice that while u r sweating, if there is no wind, u will stil feel very hot, however even the slightest breeze will make u feel colder, since the breeze is aiding evaporation, which allows more water onto ur body and more heat transfer.

SO in the case of FMIC, the water spray wouldbe useless whilst the car is stationary, and less effective during humid days.

To be most effective u would probably need a constant spray for the entire time ur boosting, as any water sprayed would pretty much be instantly evaporated by the wind.

A chemical such as methanol would prob be even more effective as it evaporates easier, but then again, who's gonna keep a bottle of methanol inside their bonnet