Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LED's use less current, thus less load. There is a device/curcuit that controlls the flash rate (looks like a solinoid), due to the less load it blinks faster, just like if a bulb was blown, i'm pretty sure these solinoids can be replaced with a differant rated item.

Just have a vague idea, but am not sure :ninja:

on ebay you can buy electronic flasher units. As al said leds draw less current and the mechanical flasher units that come standard work of the load drawn through them. When i got my car it had little indicators on the front, so indicators went fast. bought one of these units, plugged it in. (flasher unit is just under the steering wheel on the left side), i just unplugged the stock one and plugged in the electronic one and zip tied it next to it cos i couldn't work out how to get it out :rofl: I bought a few things from this guy, stuff normally comes from honkers but he's good and reliable.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-pin-Electronic-LE...1QQcmdZViewItem

  • 1 year later...
on ebay you can buy electronic flasher units. As al said leds draw less current and the mechanical flasher units that come standard work of the load drawn through them. When i got my car it had little indicators on the front, so indicators went fast. bought one of these units, plugged it in. (flasher unit is just under the steering wheel on the left side), i just unplugged the stock one and plugged in the electronic one and zip tied it next to it cos i couldn't work out how to get it out :( I bought a few things from this guy, stuff normally comes from honkers but he's good and reliable.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-pin-Electronic-LE...1QQcmdZViewItem

Does anyone knows how many flashers unit is needed ? something similar to a relay ? any link to how to fix this ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...