Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been on here a little bit, just wondering if there is any sort of review, or recommendations, things to look for when buying a R33, are there any common problems to watch out, ive heard they are great cars, and reliable is this true, can others agree with me here?

Would really appreciate any feedback, ive been looking into to purchasing a Skyline last couple of months, haven been able to find many reviews of the car as it is an import.

As a car overall, how reliable are they?

What is the life expectancy of engine before rebuild etc, (given one keeps it on the calm mod end)?

Is it difficult to get parts given it is import (although they are nearly as common as the commodore these days)?

What if any are the common problems associated with these cars, i am currently the owner of a calbira which has had endless problems so am after a solid reliable car.

Any advice would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148308-skyline-r33-review-gts-t/
Share on other sites

There's a thread on here about what to look for when buying a Skyline. Can't remember where though, sorry.

They're reliable. Start modifying them and you can expect to reach (roughly) between 270-300rwkw before having to play with the internals.

There are parts all over the place for these. Hardest things to get are the original parts of course. But 99% of parts are easily sourced. And they're nowhere near as common as Commodores, they just stand out a whole lot more.

No common problems as far as I know.

Been on here a little bit, just wondering if there is any sort of review, or recommendations, things to look for when buying a R33, are there any common problems to watch out, ive heard they are great cars, and reliable is this true, can others agree with me here?

Would really appreciate any feedback, ive been looking into to purchasing a Skyline last couple of months, haven been able to find many reviews of the car as it is an import.

As a car overall, how reliable are they?

What is the life expectancy of engine before rebuild etc, (given one keeps it on the calm mod end)?

Is it difficult to get parts given it is import (although they are nearly as common as the commodore these days)?

What if any are the common problems associated with these cars, i am currently the owner of a calbira which has had endless problems so am after a solid reliable car.

Any advice would be great

look for a thread by merli - its got all the info u need when looking for skylines or any other import for that matter - its a sticky thread too.

reliability depends on the condition of the car - u can get an r32 for say 4 grand, but u gotta question how reliable it is. Look for tell tale signs, such as wear and tear in the interior and general condition of the engine (some engines look like they were salvaged from teh bottom of the ocean).

I had my welsh plugs changed just last friday - and my mechanic was telling me that the welsh plugs will have to be checked on all imports. And this is a very important thing to check imo - as my car was leaking/loosing a lot of coolant and the plugs had been rusted big time. If you find it later, expect to pay around $500 for the replacement of the welsh plugs. You can check this by having hte car on the hoise - and its not hard to miss, but you may need a mirror and bright light to view the condition of the plugs.

Reliabilty - so far my car has been very good (apart from the welsh plugs) - did a dyno run, the afr, psi and power seem to be intune with a healthy engine and according to the mods I have on. Have driven the car for up to 200km in a single day, and through windy mountain roads - seems to go fine - but other people who have done the rebuild would tell u when u might need to do it. I think from memory - a compression test will tell you whether or not you need a rebuild.

Parts are plentiful - u can buy them at wreckers, through traders on this site, the for sale section. I went through my dealer to get me a tail light from japan. The only thing though, from japan, it takes a very long time - and u have to be patient.

If you dont want a car with problems, use that thread that I mentioned above. Then test drive heaps so U know what to look for. Finally, if there is one that you like, get it inspected via the workshop.

anymore questions, let me know.

Thanks everyone for your help, ive read Merli's what to look for which is very comprehensive, im still at the conclusion that skylines in general if well looked after are reliable strong cars, with no common mechanical problems which is great, to be honest i dont think ive heard a single negative comment about these cars, one last question though, any trusted mechanics in melb that people take their skylines too? i was thnking the Zshop?

Thanks everyone for your help, ive read Merli's what to look for which is very comprehensive, im still at the conclusion that skylines in general if well looked after are reliable strong cars, with no common mechanical problems which is great, to be honest i dont think ive heard a single negative comment about these cars, one last question though, any trusted mechanics in melb that people take their skylines too? i was thnking the Zshop?

To buy one brand new back when they were released you would be looking at over $60K+ equivalent aussie dollars, so you can rest assured of their quality.

That said, there will always be lemons whatever car model you choose to buy, but it looks like you know what you're looking out for now that you've read Merli's sticky.

I've now owned 2 skyline imports & my next car down the track will most probably be another skyline import (possibly in a 4door variant). I swear wholeheartedly by them.

Good luck with your search mate! :(

  • 3 weeks later...

Firstly thanks everyone for your advice spent the whole day looking at skylines, test drove one, was impressed, ive read Merli's what to look for, but just want to confirm the build plate, According to his post the Nissan Blue Build plate should be printed (i.e. smooth) not engraved, otherwise it is considered re-birthed, is this true for all R33 series I & II? i mainly looked at series II and from memory all of them were not smooth, i had a look at three series I and found only one to be smooth.

My advice would be you get what you pay for (with the exception of good bargains).

e.g. if there is an owner selling a perfect sII for a high price, it's high for a reason (generally). If you buy a cheap one e.g. 10k expecting it to be perfect, it won't be.

**i.e. unless if the owner is selling urgently for whatever reason, or is not aware of the market price etc, then you can snap up a bargain.

My advice would be you get what you pay for (with the exception of good bargains).

e.g. if there is an owner selling a perfect sII for a high price, it's high for a reason (generally). If you buy a cheap one e.g. 10k expecting it to be perfect, it won't be.

**i.e. unless if the owner is selling urgently for whatever reason, or is not aware of the market price etc, then you can snap up a bargain.

I totally agree, i have seen some nice clean ones just concerned about this nissan build plate, majority of the ones i have seen have been engraved i.e rebirthed is this correct?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...