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Rebuilding Front R32 Non Brembo Gtr Calipers

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  • 5 years later...
xfixiate Rising Star

xfixiate

Posted
Posted

From http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/resource-center/81611-rexbos-guide-brake-caliper-rebuilding.html

Rexbo’s Guide to Rebuilding Brake Calipers

This is a quick guide with pictures to rebuilding a set of used R32 GTR brake calipers. While doing this, remember that these are your brakes. Your life depends on your brakes working so do not shortcut or make any shady efforts. Use only new parts to rebuild the calipers, replace the pads and bleed the fluid correctly, replacing with new brake fluid. Please note that the rebuild kit is the same one as used to rebuild s14 as well as z32 front calipers. It will NOT work on s13 calipers or any Nissan Brembo caliper. Also remember to keep track of all your little pieces and parts! They can be a pain to replace if you lose them! The calipers as shown are already off the car, I will do a separate write-up of how to do a brake caliper swap as well as 5-lug

Tools Needed:

- Compressed Air

- Nissan front and rear brake caliper rebuild kit #INF22690-64Y12

- Pliers (Normal, Needle-nose and vice-grip pliers)

- Flat head and Phillips screwdrivers

- 200 Grit and 400 grit or so sandpaper and a sanding block of some kind

- WD40 or other lubricant

- Brake fluid

- Brake pad anti-squeak compound

- Rags/Paper towels

* CAUTION: YOU ARE WORKING WITH BRAKE FLUID, ALWAYS WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION AS IT IS EXTREMELY TOXIC*

Disassembly: (Front and Rear Calipers)

I will make this quick, as I have better pictures for re-assembly.

1) Take off the dust cover retaining rings around the caliper pistons. There should be 4, if you are unclear to what they are, scroll down.

2) Take an inch-thick piece of wood and put it in between the pistons of the caliper, or if the brake pads are still in the calipers, leave them there so that when you blow compressed air into the hole, the pistons will not be pushed out all the way.

3) Push the compressed air nozzle and GENTLY start feeding pressure into the brake caliper assembly through the hole where the brake line normally fits.

* CAUTION: WATCH YOUR FINGERS AND EYES. THE PISTONS CAN SHOOT OUT IF THEY ARE LOOSE SO BE VERY CAREFUL*

4) Once the pistons have all pushed out and are squeezing the pads or piece of wood, Pull the pads or wood out and shove a kitchen sponge or a wadded-up rag in the caliper to dampen the impact of the pistons when they push out. Gently apply air pressure again.

5) Once all the pistons have popped out, remove them, and if any are stuck gently pry on them with pliers, careful not to scratch or damage the sealing surface of the piston (the polished part).

6) Take a small flat head screwdriver and carefully pry the inner piston ring out, making sure not to scratch or damage the sealing surface of the caliper piston sleeve.

7) Bag and mark everything for later use, now it is time to clean your calipers however you choose. I will not cover this, as I recommend that you take the caliper to a professional powdercoater.

8) To get the shiny Nissan logo on the calipers, I took 200-grit sandpaper to the lettering, making sure to use masking tape to cover up parts of the caliper that I didn’t want to scratch. Sand until most of the paint is gone, then use the 400-grit to finish up the rest of the paint and to give the metal a shinier look. Alternatively you could paint the letters, but I found that sanding was faster.

IMG_0301.jpgReport this image

Front Reassembly:

FrontComplete.jpgReport this image

1) Use compressed air to blow all debris out of the fluid passages and out of the cylinders.

2) Spray some WD40 or other lubricant on a rag or paper towel and wipe down the inside of the cylinders as well as the outside of the pistons to clean them.

IMG_0304.jpgReport this image

IMG_0305.jpgReport this image

3) Once that has dried, on a separate rag, soak some brake fluid into it and wipe down the outside of the pistons and the inside of the cylinders to lubricate them. After that be careful not to touch the surfaces you just cleaned! Remember these are your brakes, your life depends on them, so be very careful!

IMG_0309.jpgReport this image

4) Take some of the supplied Nissan grease, and squeeze it into the bag holding the piston rings. Work it around so that the seals are completely covered in grease.

IMG_0307.jpgReport this image

5) Insert the seals into the cylinder grooves, making sure they sit completely flush inside and that the piston will not pinch any part of it. The left cylinder is flush, the right is how you insert them in and work around.

IMG_0308.jpgReport this image

6) Stretch the rubber dust boots over the top of the pistons, making sure to grease the inside of the boot a little bit before stretching over. These make sure no brake dust contaminates the piston seal. Also clean them with brake fluid after touching the lower part as I am in this picture.

IMG_0310.jpgReport this image

7) Insert the clean pistons one at a time, and push them in until they bottom out. If they do not go in just with hand pressure, be sure they are in the cylinder correctly and that the seals are correctly seated.

IMG_0311.jpgReport this image

8) Snap the dust boot over the lip surrounding each piston, and clamp them down with the supplied snap rings.

IMG_0312.jpgReport this image

IMG_0313.jpgReport this image

Front Brake Pad Install:

IMG_0320.jpgReport this image

1) As I was missing the front shim hardware, this is an alternate method. Coat the back of the supplied brake pads with the anti-squeal compound you should have. Put a pea-sized drop for each piston and spread it around with a paper towel or rag.

IMG_0321.jpgReport this image

2) Insert the two pins from the outboard side first until they stick about an inch into the caliper. Slide the outboard brake pad (the one without the low pad warning tabs) onto the pins and push it until it rests against the pistons.

IMG_0322.jpgReport this image

3) Repeat with the inboard pad and slide the pins all the way through until they stick through the inboard side of the caliper.

IMG_0323.jpgReport this image

4) Install the anti-rattle spring with the bent part facing the top of the caliper (where the bleed nipple is).

IMG_0324.jpgReport this image

5) Install the supplied spring or your own cotter pins or safety wire to the pins to ensure they do not slide out.

IMG_0325.jpgReport this image

Rear Reassembly:

IMG_0315.jpgReport this image

1) Use compressed air to blow all debris out of the fluid passages and out of the cylinders. Much of the reassembly is the same as the front calipers so follow the same steps again.

2) Spray some WD40 or other lubricant on a rag or paper towel and wipe down the inside of the cylinders as well as the outside of the pistons to clean them.

3) Once that has dried, on a separate rag, soak some brake fluid into it and wipe down the outside of the pistons and the inside of the cylinders to lubricate them. After that be careful not to touch the surfaces you just cleaned! Remember these are your brakes, your life depends on them, so be very careful!

4) Take some of the supplied Nissan grease, and squeeze it into the bag holding the piston rings. Work it around so that the seals are completely covered in grease.

5) Insert the seals into the cylinder grooves, making sure they sit completely flush inside and that the piston will not pinch any part of it.

IMG_0316.jpgReport this image

6) Stretch the rubber dust boots over the top of the pistons, making sure to grease the inside of the boot a little bit before stretching over. These make sure no brake dust contaminates the piston seal.

7) Insert the clean pistons one at a time, and push them in until they bottom out. If they do not go in just with hand pressure, be sure they are in the cylinder correctly and that the seals are correctly seated.

IMG_0317.jpgReport this image

8) Snap the dust boot over the lip surrounding each piston, and clamp them down with the supplied snap rings.

IMG_0318.jpgReport this image

Rear Brake Pad Install:

IMG_0326.jpgReport this image

1) Coat the underside of the rear pad retaining clips with the anti-squeal compound, as these are the parts that will contact the caliper, and may rust in the future if not protected. Install them by clipping them to the top and bottom inside of the caliper.

IMG_0327.jpgReport this image

IMG_0328.jpgReport this image

2) Arrange the shims on the pads so that the black shim is sandwiched between the silver shim which should clip to the brake pad itself.

IMG_0329.jpgReport this image

3) Slide the pads into the caliper on their respective sides. The inboard pad should have the low pad warning clip on it.

IMG_0330.jpgReport this image

4) Slide the upper retaining pin all the way through the caliper and both pads. Install the anti-rattle clip in the center, then slide the lower pin all the way through as well.

IMG_0333.jpgReport this image

5) Install the supplied retaining ring, or alternatively use cotter pins or safety wire to make sure the pins will not slide out while driving.

IMG_0334.jpgReport this image

You’re done! The brakes are now ready to install on your car, which I will cover later on when I do my complete s13 5-lug swap and brake swap write-up.

Total Costs:

- R32 GTR Front and Rear Calipers (used) - $540.00

- Caliper Rebuilt Kit from Nissan - $24.88

- Caliper sandblasting and powdercoating - $135.00

- Hawk HPS front and rear brake pads - $140.00

------------

Total: $839.88

If you have any questions or comments feel free to contact me via Email at sdawson@ucsd.edu or on AIM at Rexbo2006, or PM me anytime on these forums. Thank you and I hope this helps!

Rexbo

__________________

http://240sxforums.com/forums/showth...highlight=swap

http://www.kognitiondesign.com

I learned that good judgment comes from experience and that experience grows out of mistakes. - General Omar N. Bradley

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

$800? I take it that was edited out of the OP?

My rebuild kit was $90 for the pair, took a couple of hours. It's pretty easy once you manage to remove the pistons. You'll want to use air pressure to get them out, and have clamps and a way to get out the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pots.

Not entirely sure your maths is accurate Nismoid. The 356mm kit is $1800, so that a $800 plus another $1000 (+ shipping).

Your GB is very prominently featured on this website.

Edited by simpletool
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Last lines of the post i was referring too.

Wouldn't have thought it that hard to work out if you read it :)

Total Costs:

- R32 GTR Front and Rear Calipers (used) - $540.00

- Caliper Rebuilt Kit from Nissan - $24.88

- Caliper sandblasting and powdercoating - $135.00

- Hawk HPS front and rear brake pads - $140.00

------------

Total: $839.88

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

yeah but ash if you're rebuilding the ones on your car you don't have to buy anything other than the rebuild kit ($25), pads ($140) and misc rebuild stuff...

so it's more like $200 all in to rebuild inc fluids etc.

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